Decided to build another boat, but this time from the left over bits from previous kits. So, it is a boat made from two stern sections.
This diorama is to replace another one in its display space. The other is a postion of Richmond River showing the various buoys and navigational signages, the objective of the diorama. It was built by two previous museum volunteers, Clem and Peter. Out of respect for their service, and replacement od diorama, this new boat will become a buoy tender named CLEM-PETER.
I have been researching this type of vessel and its purpose. It is a specialized service, much like the fire-brigade is on land. I am quite fascinated by their equipment. The size of some buoys are as tall as a two storey building. The crane they use is also huge.
Thank you Maarten and Tiger for your responses.
There must be a reason for having a buoy tender in the vicinity, for it is not a common boat to see.
So the storey I am hoping to convey is that an unserviceable buoy broke loose and got stranded on the riverbank near the Wardell bridge. The CLEM-PETER arrived to pick up the old buoy and to replace it with a brand new buoy somewhere downstream.
I could not wait to play around with making an old unserviceable buoy.
Used a piece from an old broken broom handle, part of a red Biro, and thick copper wire.
Sanded down one side of the buoy to make it look partly aground and submerged in water.
Local newspaper reports: Giant Squid, Beached at Wardell.
I didn't realise buoys were so big. It always impresses me how people can turn a few random bits of "stuff" into real looking miniatures. That's magic - it looks like a big old rusty steel thing, not a bit of broom handle, biro, and wire.
And that's how it's done. Just right. A question. As you can see from my threads I don't use wood unless something is made of wood, what will you use to seal the wood so that you can paint it up without us seeing wood grain?
Bishop wrote: And that's how it's done. Just right. A question. As you can see from my threads I don't use wood unless something is made of wood, what will you use to seal the wood so that you can paint it up without us seeing wood grain?
_ I am hoping this diorama won't be inspected at close range.
_ The bridge grain can be seen, but it's operational aspect will hopefully distract most scrutineers.
_ If the wooden model is done well, its image ought not raise the question "what is not quite right about this?" Which would shift the focus from acceptance to critique.
_ Other bits of wood, especially the softer woods, the grain is unnoticeable after an undercoat and two coats of enamel.
_ I can imagine that grain seen across thin layers of wood, proposing to be steel, could be used to interprete as an oxy-acetalene (or laser) cut.
_ Sometimes, such as the buoy above, rasp filing marks can be interpreted as scrape marks.
_ If smoothness is important, usually expected on larger areas, then fine sandpaper is used, plus between undercoats.Or a filler as you suggested.
- On smaller surfaces, where it's too fiddly to sand, then it's too small to worry about. Or use something else rather than wood, like plastic.
There used to be a product called Sanding Sealer, it was for this exact use, it was bit like varnish and resin mix. I'm sure if you got some two part resin added some acetone to thin it, it would work the same. Try it on some scrap wood but it should do the job.
'Yea, Though I Fly Through the Valley of the Shadow of Death, I Shall Fear No Evil. For I am at 50,000 Feet and Climbing.'
The following user(s) said Thank You: Bishop, Sparky
Gary wrote: There used to be a product called Sanding Sealer, it was for this exact use, it was bit like varnish and resin mix. I'm sure if you got some two part resin added some acetone to thin it, it would work the same. Try it on some scrap wood but it should do the job.
Needed a break from model boats for a while.
The diorama needs a riverbank for the old u/s buoy to run aground on.
Decided to use condensed insulation foam for land fill.
Used a knife to cut out the basic shapes and for whittling the surface areas.
Mainly used a rasp file for shaping the foam for exact fits into confined spaces.
Used water-based wood putty for creating a surface, and 50-50 PVA-water mix for sealing the putty.
Car parking area and boat rams (new and small old ) on south-east bank.