Sci-Fi & Fantasy Group Build
The main criteria for this build is to have fun!
(Build dates: Saturday 24 October 2015 - Saturday 15 October 2016)
Proudly brought to you by Kiwi Modeller in conjunction with Mighty Ape!
The Universe is vast beyond measure, and within it exists untold dimensions. Beyond these is “Te Kore” - The Nothingness. In between the reality of our existence and Te Kore “The Kiwi Modeller Sci-Fi and Fantasy Group Build”!
Parameters for this Group Build
Pretty much any subject is allowed, as long as it’s not real. Examples include Gunpla / Macross / Gundam, TV/movie models, Warhammer, Apocalypse, Steam Punk, Sci-Fi, Bio-Mechanical, Fantasy, Figurines (not based on real people). Out of box, aftermarket and scratch built all allowed. 3D printed items are also allowed but must be totally created by you, not edited from someone else’s work or had elements imported. No partially started kits or work allowed. Entrants must have been be KM members for at least 2 months. Normal vetting for any cynical entries as usual.
All entries must have a build log posted in the group build forum presenting regular progress. Judging will be by community vote and possibly guest judge (to be confirmed). Prize(s) are also to be confirmed. Entries are welcome from KM members outside of NZ and if you win a prize you just need to pay the international shipping. Voting will run for the week following the 15th October 2016, ending at midnight on the 22nd October. A deadlock will be decided by a separate run-off vote. An affordable donation to Kiwmodeller.com is always much appreciated from those participating.
Thanks, and Enjoy!
Moderators are Paul (PJNZ) & Kane (Grover)
My testing with the Vallejo metallics, albeit a bit rushed, taught me a few things. 1. Don't Rush, 2. This is not the way to spray them, 3. Shake the bloody hell out of the bottles. The darker shades all looked very similar because I hadn't shaken them up enough. I also laid it down too thick (50/50 mix with X20A works better), at too high an air pressure, and too much paint. I knew this when I saw it all pooling and I did get a bit better as I painted, but then I also rushed. This however is why we test on plasticard and other bits first. Since then I have watched some videos and read some posts to see how others are doing it and I think I'll be ready for the real paint now.
I did however take today to paint the body colour. I was tempted to do white first, but given the thickness I will lay it down, I figured painting the red first wouldn't be a problem, and if I get lazy I can always use the decals. I had some Testors Pactra paint left over from a Nizzan 240Z so that's what I used.
Came out really well, but I did notice a couple of things I need to fix and a hair or 2 in the main body. There's also a decent gap where the fuselage join is that I should fix. I didn't notice it when it was all black but it stands out in red.
I managed to fix the little issues with the paint. It looks really nice but is still soft. I think I will let it sit for a few days before painting the white areas, to make sure the masking doesn't affect the paint.
I move on to trying the Vallejo metals after my testing before. This time I almost filled the bottles with X20A. While not a 50/50 mix, there is quite a lot of space in a new bottle to get a decent amount of filler in. I used a gunmetal mixed with a bit of duraluminium to lighten it up for the wing upper surfaces and the nose of the ship. I tried exhaust manifold for the engine parts. It wasn't as dark as I wanted so I changed to burnt Iron. It's really hard to show the end result in the photo, especially taken at night like this one. The colours are pretty close, and you would be hard pressed to tell them apart at first glance. When you put them side by side there is a difference though. I am keen to see how they look in the sunlight. I am really happy with how they have come out though. I quite like the paint now I have seen how to use it. Light misty coats, 15PSI and only pulling half way back on the trigger. You could see the metallic look building up.
Cheers guys. Put the engine areas together. The finish is really hard to show in photos
I also put the other parts on the main body and started masking some parts for a little bit of hand painting. It looks bloody good with the metallic parts
I started masking some of the other parts in preparation for the white paint. strangely though, one of the wheel fairings wasn't as dry as the other and the tape has caused some funny texture on the paint. I'm hoping that's just the tape residue but I stopped masking. Took off some of the masking on the other parts but there are no problems there at all???
Thanks Steve and Gary.
I took a look at the masking. The paint has come off in a number of places. I'm guessing while a nice gloss coat was good for the metallics, it hasn't allowed the lacquer paint to grab on. I'll sand back the areas that are a problem and then respray, and clear coat before masking again. I'll also give a good amount of time to allow the paint to cure.
Yeah, I think it would look mint in black Andrew. If it wasn't for the fact I told wifey I was building it in red for her I may have left it. It was wifey that is making me do the repais properly too. After showing her the damage I said I might just spray over it and live with the imperfections, but she said "Wasn't this the one you wanted to give a perfect finish? Proves wifey is always right. Remember that Hadley
After letting the new paint sit and cure for a week-ish, I decided this morning to clear coat it before masking and doing the next parts, just because the paint seemed so fragile.
I decided to try Alclad Klear Kote Gloss as an alternative to the ALclad Aqua Gloss I normally use. This is because i really like the Alclad Matte Kote and the way it goes down so easily, and I've really not gotten to grips with acrylic clears.
It worked beautifully. I'll be leaving it for at least 24 hours though, just to make sure it's fully dry. I should however keep working on getting better at Aqua glosses, mostly for the health hazards these represent, even though I use a spray booth and a respirator.
Looking great K1. I can't wait to see it all together.
Did you put a wash over the metallics or does the paint naturally bring out the detail? It really suits a 'steampunk' machine - kind of has an aged metal look.
Thanks guys, not completely happy with the paint but it's been a learning experience. I would love to get some Zero paints to try on something like this.
Malcolm, that is just the metalisers straight from the bottle over glossy coat of Tamiya X1. The shape of the surface helps reflect the light. They're really not bad at all and seem really hard wearing. I wouldn't recommend getting all the colours, as there are some very similar shades, so they are a little redundant. I might take some time to play a little more and try and add a colour or 2 to see what effect it gives.
Then it was just adding the wheel hubs, and lights. One of the small parts pinged off when I was trying to place it. It's a disk only 2mm in diameter so god know where it is. I dont think it went on the floor. I cleaned the bench looking for it but found nothing. I'll find it one day.
Tomorrow I should be able to add add the decals before a final clear coat and it will be finished.