Sci-Fi & Fantasy Group Build
The main criteria for this build is to have fun!
(Build dates: Saturday 24 October 2015 - Saturday 15 October 2016)
Proudly brought to you by Kiwi Modeller in conjunction with Mighty Ape!
The Universe is vast beyond measure, and within it exists untold dimensions. Beyond these is “Te Kore” - The Nothingness. In between the reality of our existence and Te Kore “The Kiwi Modeller Sci-Fi and Fantasy Group Build”!
Parameters for this Group Build
Pretty much any subject is allowed, as long as it’s not real. Examples include Gunpla / Macross / Gundam, TV/movie models, Warhammer, Apocalypse, Steam Punk, Sci-Fi, Bio-Mechanical, Fantasy, Figurines (not based on real people). Out of box, aftermarket and scratch built all allowed. 3D printed items are also allowed but must be totally created by you, not edited from someone else’s work or had elements imported. No partially started kits or work allowed. Entrants must have been be KM members for at least 2 months. Normal vetting for any cynical entries as usual.
All entries must have a build log posted in the group build forum presenting regular progress. Judging will be by community vote and possibly guest judge (to be confirmed). Prize(s) are also to be confirmed. Entries are welcome from KM members outside of NZ and if you win a prize you just need to pay the international shipping. Voting will run for the week following the 15th October 2016, ending at midnight on the 22nd October. A deadlock will be decided by a separate run-off vote. An affordable donation to Kiwmodeller.com is always much appreciated from those participating.
Thanks, and Enjoy!
Moderators are Paul (PJNZ) & Kane (Grover)
I'm going to start off with a disclaimer. I no nothing about the universe this Vanship comes from, except that it's Japanese. When PJ put this up for sale, I grabbed it nonetheless as it's very reminiscent of early 20th century design that I love. It just looks super cool.
There's not a lot to this. It actually has 2 ships in the kit. The Vanship and a smaller "Vespa" ship. Both come with stands but I'm only going to build the Vanship , and will keep it in red, 1. because it's my wife's favorite colour and she thinks it's cool too and 2. because i still have some Pactra red paint left over from when I made a Nissan 240Z.
Not too many decals either which I like, although I think I will paint the white areas instead of using the decals.
The instructions are fairly straight forward too. I'm hoping this will be a fairly fast build. I do want to test/achieve a few things though. I really want to up my game as far as preparation before painting goes. I don't want to have seem lines and gaps that I only see when I paint or after I take photos. I also want to test the new Vallejo acrylic metal colous. These may not be the best colours to test on given they are dark, but I will be using Gunmetal and Burnt Iron. Finally, I want a great paint finish. I will be aiming for the best finish I have done so far on a model.
The way I am going to have to go about the build, I decided to paint some of the internal areas that may be seen first. I used Gunze RLM66? Grey Black. Most of the body work will be assembled and painted in parts, and then given a final assembly later on.
So a question before I move on. I will be priming the metal parts in X1 Gloss Black to give a nice base for the Vallejo metals. Will this be a good colour to use as a primer for the red body too, or should I look for a light colour? I will be painting parts gloss white as well so could use that as a primer?
Great choice Grover. I've seen this kit around and always liked the look of it but for some reason I've never added one to the stash - I might have to remedy that
As for priming options - I'm a bit lazy, so I only prime if either the plastic colour is way off the top coat colour or there's lots of sanding/filling required.
So, if the fit is good and you're making a red Vanship from red plastic I'd think about not priming.
If I need to do some filling/sanding then I choose a primer colour that helps with seeing subtle shadows - usually a light grey - but a matt white works too. I wouldn't use gloss white for priming. The shiny surface makes it hard to see imperfections and the top coat will always cover better (less paint needed) over a matt base coat.
A dark/black undercoat can make colours seem brighter - I know it doesn't make sense - but people who paint 'toy-soldier' type figures gave been doing this for years. It just depends on whether a bright look is really what you're after with this build.
Viperbuilder wrote: Cool stuff Kane. I always used to wonder who this kit would appeal to when it was released. I guess I know that now.
Same with me I wondered about Airfix Meteor kits....
Nice subject and something a bit different. Some one brought one along to the last club meeting and it looked pretty cool. I think of them in the same vein as those 'Porco Rossi' seaplane kits Fine Molds do or an Idol Master F/A-18. A quick look through Model Graphix and there is a heap of Japanese comic book tie in kits and subjects most of which I've never heard of. But it seems to be a big part of the hobby in Japan...
At least they put the seam between the louvres and not right through a set
It's a bit hard to tell from the photos how much room you had to work with - but often when there's clean up work to be done that's close to detail I'll mask off the detail to give it some protection from a wayward movement of the file/sander - maybe I'm just a bit clumsy but I find it helps.
Progress is looking great though - I'm looking forward to seeing this one completed - might even get one for myself if it looks ok - no pressure
Cheers guys. Yeah I thought about masking off the louvres Powder but figured I could get the seam lines without doing it. And yeah, weird in a good way John. I think it's going to turn into a really nice kit, and it's also a nice straight forward build too.
I carried on tonight starting with hand painting other areas of the cockpit, including the seats
I also gave the instrument panels a paint, followed by a light drybrush. Then using a toothpick I picked out the dials in white and green.
I also painted up the other parts of the pit and put that together. The bulkheads had a drybrush of metalizers making them pop, but you wont see any of it.
Then it was all assembled in the body. I still have the figures to do, but they can go in later. The surrounds of the pits are much like an open cockpit biplane, so I painted them black. I'll mask them off and close up the pit before painting. The underside also has a black strip around it. I painted it now but I think I will mask and repaint it after I do the body. I was quite hard to mask the actual strip.
I also tested the fit of the wings. I glued in what looks like a control surface that in the cutout of the grey upper surface, but then I couldn't get the grey part on, so I had to rip it off and it will be painted separately.
The other body parts got some prep and I glued the wheel hubs together. I've been a bit more aggressive than I have in the past with sanding off the sprue tabs, but because I'm pushing myself for a nicer finish, I've come in with finer sanders afterwards, and then finished off with a buff. It's surprising but its worked better than sitting there for 5 minutes with a light grit sander trying to take down the join tab.
And so now I have 2 sets of parts ready for paint. Hopefully I will get to do that tomorrow.
Not much time downstairs today. Too busy, but I did put some black Tamiya X1 down on the metallic parts as a base coat. I made the mistake of using the paint neat, but it was too thick and came out looking very flat, so some quick mixing with leveling thinner and I lay down a lot of paint. The result is a very glossy finish and should be a good base for the metallics.
Then it was the old plastic sheet over the spray booth and leaving the suction on for a minute to hopefully clear out any dust particles. Will see how it all turns out in the morning.
I just went to put the pilot figures together. Pretty basic but it is only 1/72. Only 3 colours needed to paint them too. Well by colours I mean 2 greys and black.
While putting together the 2nd figure an arm pinged off, going god knows where. I grabbed the 2nd set of figures for the smaller ship and used an arm off that. Looks naf but you wont see it anyway, and it's better than having a pilot with one arm missing.
Cheers guys. Quick update before I take the wife out for her birthday dinner.
I started filling in the seams with Mr Surfacer 500. It didn't do too bad a job.
Still some raised detail so more sanding
Then I tried my new Tamiya Surface Primer, which just seemed like a thinner Mr Surfacer to be honest. Left it for a few hours and then sanded it back
Satisfied and with the wife hassling me to get in the shower I did the gloss black X1 that will serve as the base coat. I also painted a sheet of plasticard with some tape strips to create sections. I'm going to use this to test spray the Vallejo Metal colours. Wife calling gotta shoot
Great idea with the test cards - I did a card when I was painting my ODS T-72, trying out all the tin/jars of sandy-yellow-ish paint that I had sitting around - I marked down all the codes on the card and I've kept if for future reference. I might do a few more for other colours as the need arises.
Cheers powder. At the restaurant and Wifey hasn't growled me yet. Phew. Forgot one pic. Also finished the wheels. Leaving the centres gloss black. Love this method of painting wheels. So simple even I can't stuff it up...... Too often
Update In Stash:
Lots of 1/35 Armor mainly WWII German and a few Modern British/American pieces, 1/32 Aircraft and 1/48 Aircraft. Aircraft chosen to replicate RNZAF and RAAF types through the years. Some RAF & USAF types exist also.