Sci-Fi & Fantasy Group Build
The main criteria for this build is to have fun!
(Build dates: Saturday 24 October 2015 - Saturday 15 October 2016)
Proudly brought to you by Kiwi Modeller in conjunction with Mighty Ape!
The Universe is vast beyond measure, and within it exists untold dimensions. Beyond these is “Te Kore” - The Nothingness. In between the reality of our existence and Te Kore “The Kiwi Modeller Sci-Fi and Fantasy Group Build”!
Parameters for this Group Build
Pretty much any subject is allowed, as long as it’s not real. Examples include Gunpla / Macross / Gundam, TV/movie models, Warhammer, Apocalypse, Steam Punk, Sci-Fi, Bio-Mechanical, Fantasy, Figurines (not based on real people). Out of box, aftermarket and scratch built all allowed. 3D printed items are also allowed but must be totally created by you, not edited from someone else’s work or had elements imported. No partially started kits or work allowed. Entrants must have been be KM members for at least 2 months. Normal vetting for any cynical entries as usual.
All entries must have a build log posted in the group build forum presenting regular progress. Judging will be by community vote and possibly guest judge (to be confirmed). Prize(s) are also to be confirmed. Entries are welcome from KM members outside of NZ and if you win a prize you just need to pay the international shipping. Voting will run for the week following the 15th October 2016, ending at midnight on the 22nd October. A deadlock will be decided by a separate run-off vote. An affordable donation to Kiwmodeller.com is always much appreciated from those participating.
Thanks, and Enjoy!
Moderators are Paul (PJNZ) & Kane (Grover)
Sci-Fi & Fantasy GB: Bandai 1/72 Resistance X-Wing
It's a shame you've had a problem I have the X-Wing star fighter, and hopefully that's all good. I didn't mind so much the plug in parts on the AT-ST, but the fit was really quite good, and no problems.
Craig Sargent wrote: While the fit is good, I dislike the slot and tab puzzle type construction and resorted to removing the locating pins to help with better fit. You can leave them there if you are happy with a more toylike assembly, but for me it is just annoying.
I think I feel the same about the speeder bike and scout to be honest. Construction doesn't really feel like making a model. It's more like putting together Lego. There is none of the problem solving and bodging I'm used to with the crappy kits I usually build.
I have to agree with all the above comments, I built C3P0 and the MEch thing, both from Bandai and both feel like Lego to build.
I think Bandai have the edge on detail but I prefer the construction of the Finemolds kits.
'Yea, Though I Fly Through the Valley of the Shadow of Death, I Shall Fear No Evil. For I am at 50,000 Feet and Climbing.'
I have to disagree with the simplicity of the builds and the 'snap kit' comparions, Check out the entries for the GBWC and you will see what a simple 'snap kit' can become.
I find the engineering and design that Bandai have done with so many of the kits to be the best available and as much as I enjoy the challenge of a traditional 'scale model assembly', I appreciate being able to sit down in front of the telly with the wife (rather than hiding in a dark room) and a few of hours (panel lining/washes and markings take longer) have something ready for the display cabinet as much like the eggplanes etc it really heps keep the mojo up and the family see things appearing in a finished state and dont think im stashing styrene for the zombie apocalypse where its sure to be almost as valuable as fuel and ammunition.
Stand aside caffine, this is a job for alcohol.
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This evening I've been working on an old model that had some flow lines in the canopy.
I tried sanding them out with initially with some well worn 600 grit wet & dry. Moving in the sandpaper around in small circles until the flow lines were gone.
The affected area of the canopy was opaque after this but with no obvious sanding lines.
I followed this up with some 2000 grit wet & dry which brought back a lot of the transparency to the area.
I then rubbed the area with white tooth-paste on a rag and the canopy is looking great. The whole operation took less than 5mins and I'm really happy with the results.
I'm not sure how bad your flow lines are but I was really surprised at how easy mine were to fix.
Thanks John. Does look remarkably clearer than either of mine. Bring it along and I'll check to see if it is. Would be good to get this kit back on (and off) the bench.
As for polishing out the marks, that's not an option. The flow marks are through the clear piece and you cant polish the bits below the surface - not only that, but the areas where the flow marks are sit below a very raised frame, so you would not get into the corners even if you could polish them