This group build is to commemorate the 75th Anniversary of the Battle of Britain. It will run from 10th of July to 31st of October, 2015, following the dates of the battle.
The build is open to any scale and any subject that played a role in the Battle of Britain. While the Battle of Britain is foremost remembered as an air battle, builds including figures (e.g. famous historical figures from the battle), vehicles and armour (e.g. AA guns) and dioramas (e.g. airfield dioramas) are eligible provided a documented link can be established.
The model must be built entirely within the build dates to qualify, and the build should be accompanied by a thread in the group build forum documenting regular progress. Post your sprues at the beginning of the thread! By the end of the group build (and no later than 24 hours after the completion date) participants should post five pictures of the completed build in the group build forum which will be organised shortly.
To discourage cynical entries the build is open only to those who have been members of KiwiModeller for two months at the start of the group build and with at least thirty posts in the forums. So lurkers, get posting now if you want to enter! I will also vet for cynical or “gaming” entries and vote rigging.
No entry fee will be charged, but this is a good opportunity to make a donation to the upkeep of KiwiModeller.
The winner of the group build will be decided by popular vote. Voting will run for the week following the 1st of November, ending Midday the 8th of November. A deadlock will be decided by a separate run-off vote.
Heres my entry a Messerschmitt Bf109E-4/N Trop 1:48 which I will be deptropicalizing into a standard e4
In order to do this I've got some additional decals and I've also added some after market barrels to this
I'm hoping to paint this kit using vallejo model air this will be the first project that I will be spraying using the ultra and I am wondering will the 2mm needle be ok or will I be better off swapping over to the 4mm
I have finally started work on this and have got a large portion of the cockpit assembled bar unfortunately the wheels that where supposed to be on the side of the seat shattered when I removed them from the sprue so I'm going to attempt to fix them If I cannot it's not that large an issue as you cannot see that area when it's put together.
I have to say I'm really happy with vallejo model air so I may have to look at getting some others for some of my future projects although I wish I'd switched over to my 0.4mm nozzle as while I can get amazingly fine lines with the 0.2mm covering a wide area takes a while
Update In Stash:
Lots of 1/35 Armor mainly WWII German and a few Modern British/American pieces, 1/32 Aircraft and 1/48 Aircraft. Aircraft chosen to replicate RNZAF and RAAF types through the years. Some RAF & USAF types exist also.
Nice start there gibbs. Don't be too worries about using the .2 needle for the bigger work. I'm learning that it's about the balance of air pressure and distance from the model to get the best spray distribution, and that building up a light layer and then slowly adding to it is the best way to get an even and realistic looking finish.
Bishop wrote: There looks to be a reasonable amount of detail present. It also looks like it would take and engine, is that so?
It comes with the engine already moulded in place
grover wrote: Nice start there gibbs. Don't be too worries about using the .2 needle for the bigger work. I'm learning that it's about the balance of air pressure and distance from the model to get the best spray distribution, and that building up a light layer and then slowly adding to it is the best way to get an even and realistic looking finish.
It isn't that much of a worry I just think I've got used to my other one which had a .35 needle so I'm used to being able to cover large areas quicker hence why I use it for priming and clear coating, and despite covering larger areas taking longer the detail I can do with the new ab is many orders of magnitude better than my other one as seem to actually have some form of control over the trigger although this could be an illusion and it's just a case that I like the new one alot more so in my head the results seem better the only thing I'm finding a bit strange with it is the trigger release feels to be more a 2 stage process than the other but I'm sure I'll get used to it
I was finally able to get myself into the mind set to a bit more work on this and although I still don't feel like myself it was a welcome distraction from the feeling that something just isn't quite right so I'm hoping that it continues for a little while.
There are one or two pieces that I'm not 100% on one of these is the weathering on the engine in particular the oil spill as I don't know whether I've over done it or not
The other thing I've been thinking about is I've seen on quite a few aircraft builds is that people spray a black base layer following the panel lines before the main colours is there a particular reason for doing this.
The other thing that has puzzled me which is unrelated to modelling but relevant to the aircraft is the fact that they mounted the engine upside down was there a reason for this or was it a case it had to be that way up to fit as it seems like it would make more work as you'd surely have to pressurise the oil system so the cylinders wouldn't get flooded with the oil from the crank case
Unsure about the engine mount, so I wont go into that. I've heard this and that, and I'm pretty sure I remember reading about it somewhere... but I am not too sure.
Spraying the panels lines before putting the top spray on... this shows the panel lines through when you paint the top layer over. If you look at mine the 110c - The underside shows it quite well... just the hint of shading around the panel line. Some people do this before the top layer of paint, some do it after. for me I do it before as it is easier to cover up if you make a muck up... where as spraying over the top of the top paint, you have potential to screw up your hard work on painting that (mainly camo schemes)
Pre-shading panels is one of those personal things, you either love it or dont.. purely a taste issue, as in reality there is no reason the edges of panels would be darker, but model painting is about creating an impression and it does work.
I think if it is fairly subtle it does add to the sense of more than a flat model surface. Overdone it can be a bit strange though.
Xtr3meNZer wrote: Some people do this before the top layer of paint, some do it after. for me I do it before as it is easier to cover up if you make a muck up... where as spraying over the top of the top paint, you have potential to screw up your hard work on painting that (mainly camo schemes)
I had a panic attack on my spit realising I hadnt done it in pre-shading when I intended to, and I went on to do it post-shading over the camo.. I am a third rate airbrusher and was extremely nervous of ruining the whole thing.
The other thing is panel line paint which you paint on and wipe off leaving the line painted. The thing about the preshading/ postshading is that it gives the impression of
"skin" over the metal frame rather than solid plastic. Completely different to AFVs where it helps to sharpen the look of the vehicle so that you can feel the sense of it better. Makes it more 3D. Some people love it, others couldn't be bothered. I find that giving the whole tank a coat of black first really does bring it to life.
I've got the seams filled and the preshading done personally I think I may have over done it in many places but aside from that it has me with some lessons of not only the capabilities of the airbrush in regards to how fine a line it can produce (which from what I've seen can be much finer) but most importantly what I'm currently able to produce using it, it looks like I need some practice
Yeah, airbrushing fine lines is a technique I am yet to master. I am getting better, and have to have the right pressure and finger control lol. I am still experimenting with my brush currently... so hoping to get a bit better.
Once the paint is on though, most of that will be gone. And if it still shows through, some heavier layers over it would get rid of most of it
Maybe not being able to sleep is a good thing as it's now ready for paint I'm starting to wish I'd bought the xuron cutters sooner as they make things so much easier than the cheap set of side cutters I had been using
You're getting there gibbs. Good work. One thing I found really useful when I first got my Airbrush was watching youtube vids, and this one in particular, although a different art form, and australian (sorry Bishop ) , was this guy. I spent some time practicing like he suggested and I should practice more, but it did really help. Im still learning a year later, every time I air brush. This is a playlist of his Airbrush control tutorials. Mind the language though. It quite ummmm spicey
grover wrote: You're getting there gibbs. Good work. One thing I found really useful when I first got my Airbrush was watching youtube vids, and this one in particular, although a different art form, and australian (sorry Bishop ) , was this guy. I spent some time practicing like he suggested and I should practice more, but it did really help. Im still learning a year later, every time I air brush. This is a playlist of his Airbrush control tutorials. Mind the language though. It quite ummmm spicey
I'll certainly give these a go I've scanned through some of them and they made laugh so I shouldn't have much problem sitting down and watching them
I managed to get the the base coat painted although I did have some problems getting the yellow to come out which resulted in me having to mask and prime the front end
Unfortunately there has been a bit of a hold up with this I knocked my airbrush of the bench and have managed to bend the tip of the needle slightly and while it sprays it's not quite as controllable as it was so I've just placed an order for a replacement needle
But what it does mean is that I will now be cleaning the bench tomorrow instead of continuing on the build before work