DML StuG III ausf C/D

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9 years 2 months ago #271 by Glenn
Replied by Glenn on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D

Decals :)
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9 years 2 months ago #272 by Bishop
Replied by Bishop on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
That's the crest, how big should it be on the model? I like the different shades on the panels. This is a very interesting area of painting. The only thing I wonder about is just how long it would take to get these effects appearing on a real vehicle? I can understand painting a vehicle to reflect the light and shadow of a vehicle at a certain time of day and in a certain location, but all the different colours on the surface of vehicles suggests a long time in service, which many of these vehicles didn't manage. I should clarify by say that many of the later vehicles didn't manage. These earlier ones, especially those vehicles that survived 40 and were pressed into service in 41 for Russia, would have had a reasonable amount of wear. Though many of them would have been repainted as well. I guess it comes down to what the individual modeller wants the thing to look like. The paint job on this so far is most convincing, and I'm loving the colour of the German grey.

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9 years 2 months ago #273 by agyoung33
Replied by agyoung33 on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
Glenn, thank you for coming up with the goods. Please PM me so I can arrange payment etc - I insist seeing as I was going to buy some anyway bud. :)

Thanks Bish. About the photos. You're seeing about 1/3rd of the way through the process. I'm trying to replicate the same process I did for the interior, except now its the exterior obviously. The reason why I like this method is that it allows for variation and tonal difference in the paint job - it makes a single colour vehicle interesting to look at.

There will be/are quite afew different coats of very lightly applied semigloss clear, between the primer, base, post shade, modulation, and the various oil washes. Each of the colour coats I set the Tam AB onto the least amount of paint coming out of it possible (it meant misting say 3 very light coats), trying to get the previous shade to "appear" behind the latest. This way, I think I can achieve depth to the paint job.

The different shades on the panels although they look pretty obvious in these pictures have sunken back into the model proper. I applied a blue oil wash to tie the model colours together and it seems to have worked. You can make out the panels, but the difference in colour is quite minimal compared to the photo's I took earlier today. Add to this that I've still got to chip, mud and dust, rain streak (these last 2 will be interesting as it's all new to me - the present day methods anyway) and you can see that there is a long way to go before I pull sticks on the painting!

I finished up tonight by experimenting with other oil colours to further give it some tone, depth and varience. Believe me mate, it's moved quite a way from these latest photo's!! :)

Oh, the paints I heard were'nt that hard wearing. Mixed with petrol or water in the field? The finish is not going to last long mate. Could be wrong but hey. All good debating! :cheer:

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9 years 2 months ago #274 by Bishop
Replied by Bishop on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
Not I think the German grey factory coat, though yes any field overspray would wear a lot more quickly. The real wearing coats were the later camouflage extras to go over the Dark yellow. The thing though about this dark colour was that it was bound to change and shade just with the dust etc so I can counter my own thoughts from before with that. The thing I try to remember is that these tanks were never going to look like 20 year old farm machinery as they just didn't last that long in battle. Some did. Later in the year I'll start the PzIV C and will do it one of the 44 Normandy examples just for fun I think.

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9 years 2 months ago #275 by agyoung33
Replied by agyoung33 on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D

Bishop wrote: ... these tanks were never going to look like 20 year old farm machinery as they just didn't last that long in battle. Some did. Later in the year I'll start the PzIV C and will do it one of the 44 Normandy examples just for fun I think.


Well, hopefully the StuG when I'm done won't look like "20 year old farm machinery". I'm looking at 10, possibly 15... :P B)

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9 years 2 months ago #276 by Glenn
Replied by Glenn on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
Hey Gary,dont know what they are worth?
Do you need the lot?,if you pick out the decals you need I can cut them out and send too you, :)
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9 years 2 months ago - 9 years 2 months ago #277 by agyoung33
Replied by agyoung33 on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
Update and some problems.

I did lay down a blue filter, oil as it were. Man, I should have used an enamel. Lots and lots of futzing around waiting for it to dry. And, for some strange reason it gave me broad streaks of "dust" like patterns as well. But no matter, it settled down and I managed to do some chipping, etc.

Streaking with oils is a great experience. Man, endless mucking around trying to get it looking half decent!!

Note, the scratches and dents are all alittle yellow in the first four or so piccys. They are in reality reddish brown in colour.















Overall, pretty happy with the way it came out. Everything seems to be marrying up together into a whole. I had problems with the track guards as well, in that they just didn't look right but in the end, I think it came out on the plus side.

"The man is clear in his mind, but his soul is mad."
Last edit: 9 years 2 months ago by agyoung33.

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9 years 2 months ago - 9 years 2 months ago #278 by agyoung33
Replied by agyoung33 on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
con;

I plunged on and this time I thought seeing as the decals where going to be provided by Glenn (thankyou very much mate), that I should get onto weathering the hull. I wasn't happy with how light in hue the hull came out and looked to using a filter to darken it, with my first real usage of Mig pigment...

















Quite a different approach to the one I was used to. I'd already cut down an old brush in anticipation of drybrushing, but instead I used it to apply the powder instead. I applied it with a dry brush, a wet brush, a wet surface and a dry surface; just tried to get a feel as to what effects I could get with it.

Pleased? As punch. Very happy. No more dry brushing. This took me 30 minutes at most, whereas I estimate it would have cost me a couple of hours at the very least, the other way.

Tracks, small detail and stowage painting (and repair in one case) are next!

:)

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Last edit: 9 years 2 months ago by agyoung33.

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9 years 2 months ago #279 by Gary
Replied by Gary on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
Very nice indeed, if you haven't tried it already try doing it with IPA or meths, they evapourate quickly and reduce the drying times, they also give a rock hard finish. Oh and you don't need to use Mig powders to get these effects, go to an art shop (or even Paperplus does them) and get some sticks of dry pastels, grind them up in the old coffee grinder or scrape them up with a knife blade. Same effect but nicer to your wallet, they do a couple of sets of different shades, look for a nice pastel shade set.



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9 years 2 months ago #280 by Dean
Replied by Dean on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
One thing no-one ever thinks to warn you about with oil washes is that they can takes ages to dry, sometimes days. I usually do mine late in the week and then leave them over the weekend.

My wife calls me a curmudgeon. I haven't looked it up but I assume it means "fun loving and free spirited" or some such twaddle. I inform and perform over at www.militarymodels.co.nz and stick my oar in here as well. My passion is WWII 1/35 armour but I'm coming around to liking the odd 1/32 thing...

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9 years 2 months ago #281 by Gary
Replied by Gary on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
Use a hair dryer mate, they dry in minutes then. I can put a wash on and I'm ready for the top coat in 10 mins, about a minute of dryer time (not too close mind).
I stole the wife's travel dryer a couple of years back it folds up nice and small but drys paint really quick ;)



'Yea, Though I Fly Through the Valley of the Shadow of Death, I Shall Fear No Evil. For I am at 50,000 Feet and Climbing.'
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9 years 2 months ago #282 by agyoung33
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Thanks chaps. Gary, believe it or not I do have some artists chalks in my kit bag....I'd just plan forgotten I had them. :dunno: Oh well, seeing as I had the new stuff, I thought I'd give them a go. I was actually surprised at how grainy the expensive stuff was. I had to crush it further in the securing cap to get it as fine as I wanted. Anyway, I'll get myself down to the local book/art store and see what they have.

Yes I know now Dean. Plenty of trouble as the blue began to shift after I'd thought it had dried. Made for some choice words let me tell you!! Still, experience is experience. I have a better idea on how to procede next time and it was a mistake which was recoverable. :)

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9 years 2 months ago #283 by agyoung33
Replied by agyoung33 on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D

Gary wrote: Use a hair dryer mate, they dry in minutes then. I can put a wash on and I'm ready for the top coat in 10 mins, about a minute of dryer time (not too close mind).
I stole the wife's travel dryer a couple of years back it folds up nice and small but drys paint really quick ;)


I use a hair dryer to get a sag in plastic link tracks mate, but would it really do the job on oil paints? :huh:

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9 years 2 months ago #284 by Gary
Replied by Gary on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
It works for me, I use the method all the time, oh I also use the dryer on decals to help them sit better and to dry quicker.



'Yea, Though I Fly Through the Valley of the Shadow of Death, I Shall Fear No Evil. For I am at 50,000 Feet and Climbing.'
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9 years 2 months ago #285 by agyoung33
Replied by agyoung33 on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D

Gary wrote: It works for me, I use the method all the time, oh I also use the dryer on decals to help them sit better and to dry quicker.


Okay man, I'll give it a go next time! :)

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9 years 2 months ago #286 by Dean
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I've used a hairdryer on small stuff, but after a couple of unfortunate experiences with oil washes I thought were dry but weren't these days I prefer to err on the side of caution ( not to mention a couple of experiences melting very small parts with a hairdryer ). I always have something else like figures or groundwork to work on so setting something aside for a few days while I work on something else isn't a problem.

My wife calls me a curmudgeon. I haven't looked it up but I assume it means "fun loving and free spirited" or some such twaddle. I inform and perform over at www.militarymodels.co.nz and stick my oar in here as well. My passion is WWII 1/35 armour but I'm coming around to liking the odd 1/32 thing...
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9 years 2 months ago #287 by Bishop
Replied by Bishop on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
What I'm liking so very much is the subtly of the dirt, not too much, but very very convincing. Its looking great so far. Don't forget that accidents are part of the life of a vehicle. Add some mud/ oil stains and so forth and they'll cover up a multitude of oil wash problems. That headlight looks real BTW. I wonder about the field fitted rear stowage railing. I would think it would have been painted German grey like the rest of the tank. It looks like rusted metal, is it supposed to be red oxide? If so it should be a little more red. If its in red oxide it should have silver and black weld/ burn marks on it, or if bare darkened steel then the same

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9 years 2 months ago #288 by agyoung33
Replied by agyoung33 on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
Thanks Dean, Bish for the comments and suggestions!

I'm going to stick to enamels for the overall washes I think. Just less hassle and much quicker.

Bish, good points made about the field mod rack. It isn't finished yet, and I came to roughly the same conclusion as yourself this morning. I'm going to deepen the colour and then get I'm going to hair spray it, put a grey over the top and see what I get. Should be intersting!! :)

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9 years 2 months ago #289 by Glenn
Replied by Glenn on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
Looks good Gary,acrylic paint thinned with meths works very good for pin washers,have been trying it out and it runs into the detail areas so so good(I am sure craig sargent had said about using meths with acrylic paint)
Try it on a old model first :pray:
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9 years 2 months ago #290 by agyoung33
Replied by agyoung33 on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D

weldingrod wrote: Looks good Gary,acrylic paint thinned with meths works very good for pin washers,have been trying it out and it runs into the detail areas so so good(I am sure craig sargent had said about using meths with acrylic paint)
Try it on a old model first :pray:


Woah, another one I didn't know! Cheers mate!

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9 years 2 months ago #291 by Andrew
Replied by Andrew on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
It's really looking the part Gary B)

Can't wait for the next update. After building, I think weathering is the most fun :woohoo:

It's a wasted trip baby. Nobody said nothing about locking horns with no Tigers.
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9 years 2 months ago #292 by agyoung33
Replied by agyoung33 on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
I'm looking forward as well mate!!

Managed to get alot done today - still on a hiatus before my next job starts - just...painting! I took Bish's suggestion and tried to run with it. Weld seems on metal covered in primer. I think it came out pretty good. I'm having to wait till later to put on a flat coat and then buff up the welds themselves with some oily steel.

The box I made is looking good. Got some nice wood grain on it but then since it's an old, weathered box, I had to mist some grey over it to simulate sun weathering....bugger. It's waiting for either a flat clear coat, or some hairspray as I am debating on painting it with some feild grey, or...something else!

Wheels are all done, just need weathering. Tools are about half way done - they've all got there base coats, just got to figure a way of making them interesting really. There are also some wing nuts that I left off the head lights as I was afraid that I'd knock them off. They need putting down.

And I need to do the tracks. I've started putting down about 4 shades of rust over the spare tracks but haven't really gotten to the functioning ones yet.

When I'm satisfied with the casemate I'll fire a semi gloss flat clear over the top, glue the tools, glue the gun to the mount. And we are almost there. Onto a nice, small, simple, base! :)

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9 years 2 months ago #293 by Bishop
Replied by Bishop on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
With the Metho it does wonders to acrylic paint which can be really useful if you want pealing paint or undercoats showing through etc, or will be a total disaster otherwise. Its worth painting up some panels and experimenting with effects I think.

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9 years 2 months ago #294 by Gary
Replied by Gary on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
It makes easy work of cockpit details plus you can come back to it when it's dry and just put some more meths on and mix it up again (that's my tight side showing again :P )



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9 years 2 months ago #295 by agyoung33
Replied by agyoung33 on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
You know, with all this talk of how to use/mix the paint, last night I struck a workable solution to brushing Tam acrylics. I know it sounds stupid, and I should have thought of it before. But I used tap water. My previous problems using it are gone.... :blush: :huh: :lol:

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9 years 2 months ago #296 by Gary
Replied by Gary on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
Yes thin coats are the way to go, but I use an airbrush where I can. I prefer the model master acrylics for brush painting or plain old Semco/Folk art acrylics from the Spotlight art section, you get 60mls for the price of a 14ml pot of Tamiya.
I keep the Tamiya for airbrushing.



'Yea, Though I Fly Through the Valley of the Shadow of Death, I Shall Fear No Evil. For I am at 50,000 Feet and Climbing.'
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9 years 2 months ago #297 by agyoung33
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I seem to have too much time on my hands at the moment.















Took some outside shots today. Did nothing too the Stug but get the rack at the rear looking alittle better, as per Bish's suggestions.

And did more detail painting.

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9 years 2 months ago - 9 years 2 months ago #298 by agyoung33
Replied by agyoung33 on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
Con;

Take one box...



Add a picture from your childhood...



distress it further until you are satisfied...



Add a catchy name...



And while you are at it, paint some wood, amongst other things.









Thanks for looking in guys. Lotta fun today trying to get things looking ship shape stowage wise.

Cheers
G

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Last edit: 9 years 2 months ago by agyoung33.

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9 years 2 months ago #299 by Dean
Replied by Dean on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
How are you doing your wood colouring on shovels etc ?

My wife calls me a curmudgeon. I haven't looked it up but I assume it means "fun loving and free spirited" or some such twaddle. I inform and perform over at www.militarymodels.co.nz and stick my oar in here as well. My passion is WWII 1/35 armour but I'm coming around to liking the odd 1/32 thing...

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9 years 2 months ago - 9 years 2 months ago #300 by agyoung33
Replied by agyoung33 on topic Re: DML StuG III ausf C/D
Hey man, I used two different methods for this last lot.

The tools were pretty simple. I put down a base coat of "general wood"colour. (in this case it was a tan colour. I think I used Model master gulf war sand). I then waited till it was dry and then with my finest brush I painted in oval/round/curly grain on the "wood", using a red brown.

When dry or thereabouts, I get more of the red brown colour, mist it by adding water until its quite translucent. I then "run" it over the previously painted part. It doesn't matter if it starts to "unpaint" the previous grain lines I painted because that's what I'm after, a half blurred/line effect. You've got to be careful though because it is easy to totally wipe away the grain effect, leaving you with muddy "wood".

The box was abit more complicated but basically it's the same process. I primed it with grey because originally I wanted a really sun beaten box, but I saw that the tan I put over it was leaving some really interesting lighter shapes as the water ate through the primer leaving bare plastic.

"Excellent, it looks like heart wood,"
so I set off from there.

I wanted to make the box look like it was made of highly worked red wood, so I used about 5 colours here, going from red brown all the way to pink. Each time I'd draw some lines in the colour, (initially, I was following the sand marks I'd made), wait, and then, then mist. Here though I fired on a coat of semigloss clear between each layer and waited for it to dry. I wasn't taking the chance that I would mist, and it would go all the way back to the plastic again!!

I'm still debating on whether to do the hairspray thing on it and have the wood and the Rat showing through. I'm trying to think colour balance - it needs something other than grey at the back of the StuG.

I pretty much used every brand of acrylic I own, looking for different tones and hues.

There you go mate. A sample of my madness! :)

"The man is clear in his mind, but his soul is mad."
Last edit: 9 years 2 months ago by agyoung33.

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