No pics, it only has 14parts (10 white metal and 4 resin) so you'll have to imagine resin grinding sounds and the smell of Superglue.
Step 2 - Base Coat
I base coat in Humbrol enamel (and finish in acrylics). Any colour green as it's just to cover the resin and key the rest of the painting process.
It's nothing flash to look at now, basic detail and rather unassuming .....
Step 3 - Pre Shade
Lay in shadows using a black/brown wash mix.
Nothing pretty here, I keep roughly to panel lines and shadow areas but any overslop isn't an issue - it'll get covered over in the next step.
Step 4 - Drybrush/Blend
I use my preferred mix of British green acrylic and drybrush it over the tank until the panel shading is just showing.
In reality it's probably more of a stippling action than a drybrushing. You're aiming for a solid centre with some feathering of of colour.
The final pic in this series shows the drybrushing finished and as it sits before beginning any weathering.
I mix in a little yellow with the green and concentrate on the panel centres and edges of plates.
The effect I'm aiming for a slightly worn/faded shade of the base British green.
Plus each additional step adds to the colour build up and depth of final finish.
Step 6 - Streaking
Before starting and using a big and very soft brush I give the whole tank a very light drybrush of oily steel mix.
The horror of silver drybrushing I hear many cry! Don't worry, it works.
Tanks are steel and it doesn't matter what colour they're painted with IRL they still look ... steely.
Mixing in a little buff with the green and using a small stiffer brush I drybrush the mix on in streaks to simulate rain streaking and blown dust.
The aim is to keep this subtle but even then you'd be surprised at how visible it is on the finished tank and how it adds some interest to the monotone green.
Step 7 - PIP Product Improvement
Why this late you ask?
Mainly because the drybrushing/blending/shading can be a little hard on small parts so I've gotten into the habit if adding them late.
Plus this is a very basic kit (13parts) so little additions help fool the eye into overlooking the some of the simplicity.
For this I added a turret stowage box, light brush guards, cable for the turret spotlight and aerials.
Step 8 - Detail blocking
Now I tidy up any details and base coat things like mg's, tools, hatch pads etc.
All these will get a final shade and weathering too.
At this stage I also handpainted the allied stars.
Step 9 - Post Shading
Here I go over the panel lines with a pin wash of black/brown mix.
Also using a much thinner mix I shade around hatches and vents and main details, also under the track guards and the bottom of the hull.
This step adds to the definition and contrast.
Step 10 - Markings
No pics unfortunately.
Most wargaming models don't include decals so you have to either by them or in this case rob spares from a Tamiya 1/48th Cromwell which I'm building next ! lol
I don't shoot my models with all over gloss so here I just brush paint on some humbrol satin varnish on the decal locations.
Waterslide em on and finish with a brushing of decal softener/setting solution to help the edges sit down tight.
The satin bits will go when the model gets it's final matt varnish.
Step 10 - Pigments and Dust
I cover the tracks with a mixed slurry of MiG pigments.
I thin some and run it around some of the panels and fittings with a fine detail brush.
The markings/decals are also faded and blended in with a thin wash of yellow.
The exhaust vents get a soft black followed by grey drybryush to simulate soot and deposits.
When the pigments have dried off the model gets a very light matt varnishing using a Testors Dullcoat rattlecan.
If you hit it now too heavily the pigments will dull off and almost disappear.
Next I dust the tracks and lower hull and sides with my own mix of crushed pigment (it's old dried up humbols crushed with mortar and pestle).
Finally the track track edges teeth and links are drybrushed with an oily steel mix.
A quick check and another light matt varnish and it's ready for the table.
Me too! Plenty I can still learn about brush painting.
Great stuff and thanks for sharing it.
My preference - WW2 RNZAF & Pacific Theatre, Allied & Axis, ETO, Mediterranean, AFV & figures
I enjoy doing research
Marder38 wrote: Great Help Brent,
(should have looked at this first before my last post),
what are the paints?
love the outcome from my favourite tank
Hey Elliott, the paint is normally use is GW acrylic, the last gen stuff. My stocks are running low though and I hate teh new stuff. It's alright for the layer technique they use on their figs but drybrunshing and blending just doesn't work for me. SO I'm slowly returning to Humbrol enamels at the moment .........
On the painting, there's more pics and sbs threads on my blog, have a shifty and I'll be glad to help if there's any questions .......
shaunfletcher wrote: Has a really nice 'feel' to the texture, bet you get many admiring comments and looks on the wargames table!
lol, unfortunately this is a customersm but he is pretty happy with it I'm the painters version of a mechanic. Their cars are usually in worse condition than their clients and my wargaming stuff is in the same state. I started replacing my stuff 4 or 5 years ago and bringing it up to my new standard but it's a slow process .........
Nosferatu wrote: havnt done any armour yet..very inspiring! What is your Oily Steel mix?
Well technically I guess it's gunmetal, but I've tried several and still think it's better to mix it my own. I use black, silver and a touch of dark blue. I always make sure the brush is virtually empty as it's better to put it on very litghtly and add more if required. It''s more of a hint than an old school drybrushing of every raised edge .......