Luckily I came across a few photographs of Wardell Bridge via a Company that uses drones for aerial photography. Form these photos I was able to draw a plan for the span hut.
The base plan:
Used 3 mm MDF board for hut and gangways, and matchsticks for rail posts.
The extra board you see is the hut floor. I am going to used its edge for gluing the hut walls to.
The rectangular hole is where the wiring will come up from under the span.
You can see the cable anchoring points have been inserted. I used microswitch actuator arms (the roller type) for bumper rollers. These ones are for longitudinal movements of the span. They are to stop the span from getting caught onto the towers when the span raises and lowers. On one corner is also an opto-couple used for triggering the vessel traffic lights from red to green once the span reaches its upper limit.
The wires got routed to the hut. Glued the wires against the framework for concealment.
Used 3 mm MDF board, 2 mm clear Perspex, and white card to build the hut walls. I was surprised how well the Perspex can give that glass window effect (slight reflection and parallax error). The four tabs at top of walls is for positioning the roof.
Added split bamboo skewers for railings, and fly screen for mesh. Started to paint the span with a home mixed, Bridge Grey oil enamel.
Found some washers that fit over the LED nav; lights. Now they look more like beacons.
Added railings for the road and footpath. Gave that a paint. Will paint road later.
To be honest, at this point of model making I felt really good on how the span turned out.
Actually, I am half way in the project. But since I came to Kiwi Modeller late, I am adding photos of what has already been done. Instead of dumping all the photos in one hit, I am posting them piecemeal. Soon these photos will catch up to where I am at. Then everything will slow down to normal building rate (posting once every few days to a week).
Since the console interior is to be another diorama, I decided to add a touch of drama by adding Power Status Indicators. Each DC voltage source has two LEDs. Green for all okay; Red for 'blown fuse'. Also cleaned up the terminal strips and made new set of printed numbers (1-60) for them. Then I installed the Power Supply Unit into the console.
At this stage, the console was at the museum. To cut down on double handling, I got the console delivered to my place.
Update In Stash:
Lots of 1/35 Armor mainly WWII German and a few Modern British/American pieces, 1/32 Aircraft and 1/48 Aircraft. Aircraft chosen to replicate RNZAF and RAAF types through the years. Some RAF & USAF types exist also.
The pulley wheels I wanted were too expensive (to buy ten of them). So I came up with an alternative by solder-sweating different sized washers together.
My first attempt had too much solder, but got it right after that.
The towers are not actually in place in these photographs. They are just positioned to see how it will look, and how close the span bumpers would get to the towers.
The towers have to be installed at the same time as the road surface.
I discovered before installing the towers that once they are in, the span cannot be removed for repairs. There won't be enough room to pass above the pulley wheels. So I cut off the lateral bumper rollers (the hidden side) and replaced them with removable ones.
Then I had the fiddly job of painting the railings.
I do not plan to paint the bridge to appear weathered, but as if brand new and unpolluted. It is something I learnt to appreciate from doing some architectural rendering in my youth. So, I gave the rest of the bridge a cement grey colour. The road will be painted to appear as concrete (with gravel).