January 17th 2016 will mark 25 years since the US-led Coalition began airstrikes in a prelude to boots on the ground to force the withdrawal of Saddam Hussein’s Iraqi forces from Kuwait. To mark the 25th Anniversary, we will be commencing a Kiwimodeller Group Build, beginning January 17th 2016, and finishing on the 15th of July 2016.
The build is open to any scale and any subject that played a role in Operation Desert Storm. This includes Iraqi forces. The model must be built in its entirety within the specified build dates and the build should be accompanied by a thread in the group build forum documenting regular progress. Post shots of your sprues at the beginning of your thread.
By the end of the GB (and no later than 24 hours after the completion date) participants should post five pictures of the completed build in the GB completed builds thread. There is no entry fee for the GB, but a donation for the upkeep of Kiwimodeller is welcome The winner of the group build will be decided by popular vote.
Voting will run for the week following the 15th of July, ending Midday the 22nd of July. A deadlock will be decided by a separate run-off vote.
Cheers guys, and yeah, I'm liking this plane more and more Bishop.
Just a little bit tonight. I had a look at the gaps where the 2 fuelsage halves met. Unfortunately I didn't spend enough checking the alignment before putting them together. There's hardley any gap but there is a little step between the 2 halves, and so I had started sanding that back. To make it a little easier and so I wouldn't end up sanding too much I decided to try a couple of different fillers. I used some of the Tamiya liquid surface primer, and some Perfect Putty. On the other side I thought if Phil's trick to use lacquer thinner to weld the joins together. Unfortunately, I don't have any lacquer thinner, but thought that Mr Hobby Levelling Thinner would work. It didn't really but it was worth a try.
Of the other two, neither was perfect
So I ended up putting a coat of Stynylrez primer on just to really see the gaps, see where I needed to spend the time and to help spot any other issues the black styrene was hiding.
Hopefully back to the prep work tomorrow if I get time.
Cheers guys. I hope I can live up to the expectations re the painting. And you're not wrong Bishop, there are shapes you just cant see in black, that suddenly come to when I sprayed it grey. I did for a second think about doing a "Have Blue" mockup
Nice idea about Have Blue, but while they look similar the airframes are quite different, not just in size (have blue is about half the size of the f117). Sad story, they don't know where these ended up, 1 crashed flying out of area 51 and they supposedly just bulldozed earth over the crash site and didn't note where it was, the other probably got chopped up along with other black projects and shoved in a deep hole and buried. So we will most likely never ever see these again.
Later on they did have a grey F-117, which was a test to see if they could be painted different colours without affecting the stealth aspect of it and from memory it didn't change the cross section by any noticeable amount. Early in testing they also had one painted in a camo scheme similar to the israeli scheme used on the Vipers and Eagles.
The camo scheme ones look photoshopped but are in fact real. They are confirmed by several pilots in one of the books I have read about them that they did have the scheme on one of the FSD airframes.
Thanks G2. I didn't realise the camo paint was actually a trial they thought about and year, very much Israeli like colours.
I decided to give the bottom another go over with primer as I find it hard to judge the surface just from feel.
While I was at it, I also sprayed some of the other parts, knowing they would need clean up, but at least now I can see a bit more clearly how much clean up. It's going to be a bit of work getting all the parts ready for paint still.
And the result of the priming of the underside of the fuselage is I need a lot more clean up there. Once I do sand everything back I may try some styrene filler. The perfect plastic putty comes out rather pitty / porous.
grover wrote: Once I do sand everything back I may try some styrene filler. The perfect plastic putty comes out rather pitty / porous.
Great progress there Grover.
I've been thinking of trying out some styrene filler as well for the same reason - no matter how smoothly you sand it, regular filler/putty still absorbs paint more than the surrounding plastic and the finish of the primer coat looks patchy. I've just ordered some Tamiya Surface Primer (I've never used it before) to see if it 'seals' normal filler/putty prior to priming.
Cheers Powder and Bishop. It's interesting that a lot of things are assumed in any kind of endeavor that requires skill. It's assumed that you will know how to sand, know how to glue 2 parts together, know how to do a lot of simple stuff. You realise however after watching something be explained, and then when you try what was suggested and seeing all your struggle fade away, that actually being shown properly is a huge help. Just the confidence to go attack a piece of plastic confidently with a sander, or a brush or an airbrush really shows in the results. And this is how I found my sanding session today after watching a video on the subject. I was able to go in fix a lot of the problems I was having trouble with before, and this job doesn't seem to daunting now. All the seems are now smooth as.
There's just a couple of areas I needed to give more attention. Actually, I probably could have gotten away with them as they are, but I figured while I was on a roll so to speak. I made this styrene filler mix last year. I've never really used it. Probably should have done some testing first but I think I got it in the places I needed it. Will see in the morning when I give it another sand.
Tamiya light curing putty doesn't seem to suffer the pitting/porous problem that plagues some other fillers (not that I have ever come across it myself before but hey ther is always a first time). It dries quickly when exposed to UV light and sands really well, almost like resin but nicer (?).
I'll find out how well it has worked tonight when I put on another coat of primer. Good thing about this build is that it doesn't matter if I lose some detail from the panel lines with too much primer.
I found my Vallejo putty today which was good timing. The join where you attached the tail find insert into the larger section required some attention.
I'm going to prime the top tonight too so I gave it a wipe down with Iso to clear off any dust and oils. Hopefully it won't need any further preparation.
Nice work sorting out the various joins.
If you haven't tried it yet, I recommend Mr Surfacer 500 & 1000 applied with an old paint brush.
It's great for filling smaller joins and blending parts together, and wipes off easily with a cotton bud moistened in lacqer thinner.
Cheers VD. I have some Mr Surfacer 1500. I used that but didnt look at wiping away the excess. I may try that. I just put on some more primer and there's still some areas that need clean up. So hard to see on black styrene.
Good progress Kane. I used Perfect Putty on my F-117A and likewise found it to be grainy and almost sponge like in its ability to soak up primer and remain grainy. It also has an annoying amount of shrinkage if applied thick. Car bog beats it's hands down, especially if you like to stink the room out I'll probably stick to using car bog or hobby fillers in future, but I'm also keen to try out the styrene filler at some point.
Weathering these could be a possibility as they would have been waiting around and would get scratched up with loading etc. The question really is how much you want to weather the plane, will it be used (active service sort of thing), or is it just on display? If that is the case then the weathering is really only to highlight things. Just thinking out aloud here. Very nice work spraying these up btw.
When weathering LGBs, it's ok to weather the warhead (ie the bomb body) as these tend to be stored for quite some time, sometimes outside. Fading of the paint is ok, and depending on the environment rain streaking and at the most extreme a little rust around the lug wells. Some images of Vietnam era bombs show some quite heavy weathering. Modern bombs tend to be much tidier.
It's not appropriate to weather the GCS and Airfoil unit (nose and tail) as these are kept stored in hermetically sealed containers, and only fitted to the bomb body within a fairly short time (hours or days, not weeks or months) before loading. Also it is pretty common that the nose and tail are noticeably different colours to the bomb body.
On the point of porous primer, I find a light coat of extra thin CA seals porous putty quickly.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Bishop, grover, Xtr3meNZer