Time to block up the wheel wells for the first primer. I know its probably a bit early as there's still some sanding to do but I want to get a better idea of exactly where I need to work on the most and priming shows up all the things I haven't done properly
As was suggested I have used a little bit of PVA to glue the canopy down temporarily. Hopefully it holds
I also laid out the gloss white on all the undercarriage parts. My masking of the front wheel worked out pretty well. I normally would have done the black tyre last but the make up of the part, and the mask I got with the Eduard allowed me to do it this way.
The tail hook comes with a decal but I would rather not use it, so I cut some 10mm Tamiya tape to mask up the for the back and white stripes.
The Canopy wasn't sticking down, so I primed the back 2/3rds of the plane and have left it to dry. It should be dry enough to sand after work tonight.
I'll be trying to get through a bunch this week as the next two weeks will be super busy with work.
My preference - WW2 RNZAF & Pacific Theatre, Allied & Axis, ETO, Mediterranean, AFV & figures
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A-4E Skyhawk "Top Gun" - grover's build
4 years 6 months ago #65
Good news is the Cockpit has stayed on. Hopefully it wont be too big a job to remove it once i've finished the painting
It's been a job of sanding and re-sanding and trying to get smooth finishes and flush surfaces. I know I won't achieve it totally this time, and next time I'll spend a bit more time fitting and testing before I glue. All part of the learning. I have tacked down the slats and the air-brakes for now
I also closed in the rear landing gear doors. Because this is a camo job, I think its actually going to be easier to paint the camo on first, and then remask and spray any overflow into the gear wells. The shape of them is nice enough to allow this. I'll also do the same with the slats and airbakes which I'll paint red, and at the same time do the red skirts of the landing gear doors
This is the first plane/model I've attempted to re-scribe. Like the fit, it's not going to be perfect but I'll keep on learning
So my final act tonight was putting primer on the raoming areas of the fuselage that had been sanded or not primed yet. It really shows up any roughness in sanding which is good, but it means I'm going to be sanding more. It also showed that the nose has a pretty noticeable seam I was hoping the primer would cover. Looks like this kit is determined to make me work for a good result.
Looking good Kane! Rescribing is one of things that is a bit scary.."No sir..I don't like it" but I have discovered that every kit is a learning experience and a series of problem solving exercises...But isn't that what makes it fun? When you can look at the end result and say" I'm pretty happy with that!"...
So I've just finished what we dubbed at work "hell week" which was awesome, just really busy with 2 kids from each of the youth studios in our network coming for 4 Days of projects and a celebration evening. Now I head into running a training week but I'm hoping to get cracking on more of the skyhawk.
My first job is preparing the replacement refuelling probe, the first time i have worked with resin. Any tips on how to cut this out and prep it for primer?
Nice progress mate! Resin - yeah, its not too bad to work with. Just rough up the mating parts (i normally use a piece of sandpaper) before you glue it. Helps the bond. Cutting it out - a small razor saw or sharp scapel blade.
Still sanding and preparing the surface. Im getting quite anal now and at some point in going to have to let it go and just get on with painting
Talking of which, im thinking of trying the MIG Ammo paints I picked up recently instead of my trusty Mr Color paints. I know it's not the smartest thing to do and I should test on something first, but no one accused me of always doing the clever thing
While painting the tail hook, the masking came away and the finish isn't great so it's on the list to redo.
Looking good Kane. I've used a couple of my Ammo and AK paints and I must say they are just as easy to use as Tamiya/Gunze (which I normally use). They can be thinned with tamiya thinner but I found the best way was to use demineralised water. A litre will cost you all of 3 or 4 bucks and will last nearly forever.
One thing you may or may not want to fix (completely up to you of course!) is the diamond shaped plate on the intakes. They were only found on a very small number of E/F airframes so may pay to check your particular airframe you are doing. I removed them on mine and it was very easy to take off and rescribe the panel line there. Craig also alerted me to an intake on the port side just in front of the rear air brake that isn't present on the E/F from memory. Took all of a couple of minutes to fix, using the same perfect putty you are currently using (it's great stuff isn't it?).