Craig, one other thing you might be able to help me with, if the guns were removed, did they fill in or block off the shell ejection chutes on the underside or were they still present even if the guns weren't?
Ian, it doesn't look that bad in RL, the camera plus the angle of the shot exaggerates it greatly. I've read in a few reviews that it can be a problem, the fit you see is after I fettled with it a bit to get better joins on the sides where it is more visible.
Once I've primed the whole thing I'll see how it is, I think it may only need a lick of Mr Surfacer to sort it. There are a couple of other joints that are going to give me more of a headache I think, mainly the joint between the fuselage around the front gear bay and the bottom wing insert, people who have built this kit before will know what I'm talking about (small gaps between the two, I might be able to sort them with slivers of sheet styrene) and the gun blanking inserts at the join between the wing and the fuselage (they aren't too bad, worse than they should be but I think I may have sanded them into shape last night, another joint that might need a little mr surfacer). Apparently the gun inserts are mentioned as being a problem in every single build I have read online so this is more a kit design issue than the skill of the modeler.
Yep remember those gun inserts as being a real.p.i.t.a. and that front joint was no easy ride either. Interesting that back-in-the-day Esci's simplistic engineering seems to have worked-out just the same as Hasegawas. At the cost of finesse of detail, of course. Keep it coming, Gary.
So typical for me, after getting a replacement gun fairing from Craig (thanks mate!) What do I stand on this morning? That's right, the gun fairing I had lost, stuck pointy end first in my foot.
Anyway, got some filling and masking done today in prep for a primer coat.
Masking tape for the intakes and cockpit plus the rear part of the main gear bays and wet tissue for the front section of the main gear bays and the nose gear bay. Once the tissue and maskol is dry and it cools down a bit I might get the primer on tonight.
Another quick update, got the wheels etc ready for paint too. Also attached the refuelling probe wth the master model probe tip. All aerials are now attached also.
After stating a couple of nights ago that I hadn't broken any of the slat supports off, I managed to knock 2 off today. I only noticed a little while after I did it but luckily they were both still sitting on my bench as opposed to on the concrete floor.
This pic is after I used some km weld to glue them back on, they now feel as solid as they were before so hopefully they are the only ones I knock off.
Also got the centreline pylon and acmi pod done. Not sure if you can see it or not but I ended up using small pieces of thick brass wire as pins. It fits together perfectly so once it's painted I can join them together easily without getting glue marks all over the pod.
That definitely all for now, still hoping to get some primer on it tonight but we'll see how I go.
Should get primer on tomorrow since I'm off work (from working the weekend) so might have some camo on in the arvo. Will have to sus out exactly which colours as I have a selection of various paints which match the supplied FS numbers so I might have to do some test camo on my desk hulk to pick out the right shades.
I know that post wasn't too interesting but next on will be the dark brown and then the green. I'm contemplating scanning the painting instructions and sizing them properly to cut them out as masks, will be difficult around the tighter areas but the bits like the wings etc will be easy enough. Otherwise I was just going to get it as close as and not worry about it being exact.
I also primed all the extra bits and bobs to go on so I'll need to paint them too at some stage.
The camo pattern on the real aircraft looks to be fairly tight so I don't think my freehand skills are quite up to it. I think using the instructions as a mask will be the way to go and use some blutac sausages to lift it slightly off the surface.
I would forgo the hassle of printing the instructions and use fine rolls of blu-tack filled in with masking tape. You'll get better control and a more organic feel to the final camo demarcation lines. It's not that hard to copy a pattern off the plans.
That was the other way I was thinking Craig. I'm not hugely fussed if the camo doesn't match the real thing exactly to the scale centimetre but as long as it's close I'll be happy. I did roughly outline the camo areas using a pencil (a method I have seen many times online and looks like it works) to get reasonably correct areas to spray and I will make it more accurate when I do the other camo colours..
Craig Sargent wrote: I would forgo the hassle of printing the instructions and use fine rolls of blu-tack filled in with masking tape. You'll get better control and a more organic feel to the final camo demarcation lines. It's not that hard to copy a pattern off the plans.
Quick question Craig, with the blu-tack, does one leave it on until the paint has dried or does it need to come off fairly quickly after you've sprayed? Just thought I'd check before I go ahead and do the next colour and end up mucking it up...
You can take it off immediately, Gary. I use it all-the -time, and I usually wait about 30mins, enough time to make and drink a mug of tea/coffee and let the paint settle-down. Key thing is to watch for paint residue mixing with the Blu-Tack then attaching itself to your finger-tips and you inadvertently transferring that to your newly painted model...