So I finally managed to make a start on my scooter, first up the obligatory sprue shots.
First order of business was removing the pour stub off the resin bang seat and tidying it up, the main issue being the fin of resin across the front of the seat that you should be able to see in the image in my previous post.
With the help of my hasegawa trytool chisel, I scraped the offending sliver of resin off, and while doing this managed to snap the overhead ejection pull ring off. I then fashioned a new one out of some thin fuse wire and glued it back in place. IMHO I think it looks nicer than the resin one anyway, which was a little large for my tastes.
At this point I then found that the resin seat was too wide for the cockpit. I assembled the kit seat and found quite a considerable difference between the two. They are the same height, but the kit seat is far narrower and the lower sides a lot taller than the resin option. From pics I could find online of the escapac seat the resin looks to have far better proportions so I proceeded to sand off most of the detail from the lower sides until it slid nicely in between the side consoles. The resin seat also sits a lot more upright than the kit seat (far more than it should in RL) so instead of removing the raised tab the kit seat normally butts up against, I will just glue the resin seat on top of this ridge, which conveniently makes the resin seat have the right amount of recline in it.
That's all for now, I might be able to get some more done in the next few days, possibly even get some paint on it.
So this year has got off to a bit of a shocker, since new years we've had a flooded cupboard, my wife broke a tooth, and I managed to drop a wooden shelf on my foot and broke a toe. It doesn't hurt too bad but the up side is that I now have another week off work. So I should be able to get a bit done on the skyhawk this week. Should have an update later this arvo.
Managed to get some spraying done last night and this morning. I figured out using the ak interactive primers through the airbrush (20psi with a little drop of IPA in the bottom of the cup, the primer also needs to be shaken to within an inch of it's life too). Primed everything black last night and did colours this morning.
AK acrylic white is fantastic, just needs quite a bit of thinning but it builds up in layers beautifully, even over black primer. All undercarriage bays and gear doors painted. Also got the front intake pieces sprayed too. I have seen many builds where spraying white over a black primer gives a lot of definition for the gear bays and with the detail in the Skyhawk ones, I think it has worked perfectly to show off all the great detail in there.
Also got some gunze burnt iron on the exhaust fan and pipe, nothing will be seen inside it anyway once it's sealed up so won't do any more here. Also got some tamiya titanium silver on the intake fan face, I'll give it a black wash to get some definition and then put a masking tape disc over it so I can do the rest of the intake white.
And finally the cockpit, control stick and instrument panel done is tamiya xf54 dark sea grey, which from what I can find online is a good match for FS36102 (the correct cockpit colour by all accounts).
Not sure if I'll get more done today or not but if I do I'll prob try to get the bang seat and cockpit painted up properly.
Good start G2. Finished my 'legacy' project just a few minutes ago, so will be able to dive in to my A-4 build now. I agree that the black primer makes a fantastic base even for white. Looking very promising, friend.
Done that before too, surprisingly enough, that hurt more than breaking the toe did. The hole in my foot also hurt more than the toe. That's what happens when you drop a 6kg wooden shelf from 5 foot high corner first on the top of your bare foot. Doc thought it was ok at first but when he looked at the x-ray again he noticed a Crack going all the way through the bone. It's actually worse having it strapped up than the bone being broken. But I get an extra week off so it's modelling and gaming all day this week.
CyNaKyL wrote: Managed to get some spraying done last night and this morning. I figured out using the ak interactive primers through the airbrush (20psi with a little drop of IPA in the bottom of the cup, the primer also needs to be shaken to within an inch of it's life too).
Cool will give that a go tomorrow morning or night. Too hot during the day to paint. Its likely to dry in the colour cup.
Got a bit more done today, finished the intakes/fan face etc, got a nice gloss finish with some gunze aqueous clear and a quick black wash on the fan face. Fan face is now glued into one half of the fuselage.
Main cockpit is pretty much done bar a black wash (have just sprayed a gloss clear before the wash), drybrushed the side panels with tamiya sky grey (better than white I think) and did a couple of buttons in red and yellow just to give it a little colour.
Also did most of the instrument panel, still need to pick out the raised details on the dials etc. Had painted most of it black and was trying to figure out how to get the grey back between the dials. I grabbed my tamiya grey panel line accent and touched it here and there and it flowed in between all the dials nicely to restore the look of black instruments on a grey panel.
Also glued the wing halves together and did a quick mock up, starting to look like a squawk now.
Here's a trick I found from a build belonging to Dave Aungst. There are two pitot thingys on the right hand fuselage side by the refuelling probe. The one closest to the nose is for if the aircraft has a bent probe and the one further back is for a straight probe. Remove which ever one you don't need.
That's all for now, I will try to finish painting the bang seat tomorrow after I go to the dentist and perhaps I might be able to close up the fuselage tomorrow too.
My preference - WW2 RNZAF & Pacific Theatre, Allied & Axis, ETO, Mediterranean, AFV & figures
I enjoy doing research
Hasegawa 1/48 A-4E/F Top Gun Adversary Skyhawk
4 years 9 months ago #14
Just about ready to close up the fuselage, waiting for a couple of paint touch ups to dry. Got 2x 6gm sinkers in the nose and another behind the rear cockpit bulkhead so should have enough weight to keep the nose down.
With a dry fit the wings seemed like they need to move up into the groove on the fuselage they fit into a touch more so once the fuselage is together I might try and sand the recess a tad to get a better fit.
Anyway, here's a couple of finished shots of the cockpit, instrument panel and seat. The seat looks meh on the camera but looks much nicer in person. Once it's in the tiny cockpit I think it will look great. the unpainted patch on the cockpit floor is to glue the seat in later.
Prob not going to be a lot of progress over the next few weeks as I will be back at work but I will try to fit in some time here and there. As I was saying to Craig yesterday, I think I have done more building and painting in the last few days than I did in the last half of last year. I'm surprisingly motivated at the moment, not sure whether it's the kit or something else, but either way I'm enjoying it.
CyNaKyL wrote: As I was saying to Craig yesterday, I think I have done more building and painting in the last few days than I did in the last half of last year. I'm surprisingly motivated at the moment, not sure whether it's the kit or something else, but either way I'm enjoying it.
Same. Being on holiday helps a lot, and nice long days, dry weather. I had to look up the Tamiya Grey Panel Line Accent colour you talked about. Nice tip. May have to pick some up.
They have 5 I think, black, dark brown, light brown, light grey and dark grey, I have all except the dark grey. They are pretty similar to the ak/ammo washes in that they are enamel based. I have used them before on my Tamiya do335 and they worked well. MA has them (or did anyway) as does Hobby City and Model Air.
Thanks Nos and G1. Other than the bang seat (which isn't much of a upgrade over the kit one!) it's all just the kit detail. Apparently using the kit decals and some microsol looks a treat but I figured I could do as good if not better so off I went and painted it all. I think it has come out best of all the cockpits I've done (which isn't many) but I'm very happy with it.
One more small update for now, the fuselage has started to be closed. Have only glued the cockpit to each half and the exhaust into each side as well as the very aft lower section of fuselage. I will go along and do a bit at a time to try and eliminate any possible seam repairs that might be needed. Berna clamps come in very handy here as they are flexible and lock into place when you apply however much pressure you need.
Got the whole fuselage glued, a few bits here and there, a couple of majors, one just behind the cockpit (I think the rear intake/fan face has thrown thins out a little), the nose (I could bend it into position but clamping didn't put pressure in the right direction) and under the rear (the 2 fuselage halves seem to bow into each other, making it a little concave, not much I can do here). Most of them tidied up ok with a needle file (less oversanding than a sanding stick) abd have put some mr surfacer 500 on almost all the seams anyway to make sure I definitely got them all.
I've also added the front vertical fin insert and the rear under fuselage insert with the flare pack, both of these needed just a little skim off the sides to make them fit perfectly.
One other thing for those building the same kit, just behind the intakes are a couple of diamond shaped panels (1 on each side), apparently these were only on very early echo models and even then not many. Check your reference pics but a quick sand removed them easy as. Just have to restore the vertical panel line and it's all good.
Another update, SWMBO is being surprisingly accommodating at the moment with me spending time in the garage modelling so I figure while she's happy with it and I'm feeling motivated I might as well do as much as I can.
As you can see I got the wings on and glued. During dryfitting I noticed a rather sizeable gap running along both wing roots and after a bit of investigating of online builds, I stumbled across the issue. There is a step molded onto the lower wing which the upper wing halves sit on to get the right thickness etc, problem is once the upper wings are on this step protrudes out past the upper by a mm or so, causing it to interfere with the fuselage mating surface which in turn creates the gap. I used a chisel to scrape this step flush with the upper wing which mostly removed the gap. A bit of clamping during gluing closed the gap completely on the left side and just about on the right, which I had to clean up a little excess plastic which squeezed out. Under a few coats of paint though it won't be noticeable.
I also tackled the few offending seams and did a bit of rescribing some lost detail, mostly the intake and nose panel lines. I didn't have as much luck trying to rescribe a circle on the upper nose that I had partially removed. No matter how I did it, I couldn't quite get my ET template to sit flat enough and kept scribing a slight oval. Unless anyone has a better idea I may just leave it off as it was reasonably inconspicuous in the first place anyway.
Other issue I'm having is the instructions which show which aerials and protrusions to add for the version I'm doing don't seem to match up with the boxtop artwork (or the 1 or 2 other low quality pics I have managed to find online). I did however find more, better quality pics of one of it's sister aircraft painted in the same camo scheme so I may just go off what I can make out from the box and those extra pics.
Should be some more progress tonight as I'll add the rear horizontal stabs plus all the other greeblies then onto priming sometime in the next few days, no doubt I will find more seams I have to fix!
Yeah, there are certain similarities between the kits (obviously sometimes there is only 1 way to skin a cat) but then in others there are wildly different methods. The Italeri seems to be the more simple of the 2 (it and Hasegawa) as it only really depicts 1 version (F and late E) whereas the Hasegawa is engineered in such a way as to swap a sprue here and there (or not in some cases) and get many different versions out of the same basic molding. It does make the construction a little longer and fiddlier but the detail level is certainly a lot nicer on the Hasegawa, not to say the Italeri doesn't build up into a good model at all, plus they are a LOT cheaper. Hobby City had a few hase 1/48 A-4's for sale and they were all $100 or more.
Wow. That is interesting about Hobby City pricing! RRP on most of the Hasegawa 1/48 A-4s should run around $60. The only exception I'm aware of are the Israeli ones which had a bit of resin and brass in them so ran closer to a hundy.
Coming along nicely Gaz. Look forward to seeing some paint on.
Don't forget to correct the gear leg mounting issue!
Already done mate! My hasegawa Chisel dealt to it nicely.
Now that you mention it they were both israeli ones, an N and an H. The H was $90 and the N $100.
One other thing I've read is that the braces for the leading edge slats are notorious for breaking off, in fact many people get challenged to not break any off during the whole build. I haven't yet but I'm hoping I haven't just gone and jinxed myself...
Looking really nice as are all these A4 builds. I really like your cockpit and seat detailing as well.
I've got 2x Italeri 1/48 A4's in the stash with low vis RNZAF roundels which look like crap.
I'd be keen to get some after market roundels and have a crack at one myself once I get a little better.