So I'm having some issues with my current wip which is Tamiya's 1/24 Misti Lancer Evo 6, which I'm converting to a Tommi Makinen edition with the use of the Hobby Design detail-up kit.
The painting process of the body goes like this... Sand bare plastic, scribe panel lines, clean up. I have some Zero white Microfiller primer (from about 4 years ago when we could bring it in). Wait 2 hours for the primer to cure, sand the texture off with 1500. I then apply TS-49 in light coats. I wait about 12 hours then sand some texture off with 1500 then apply 2k clear, 3 coats. Let the 2k cure for 36 hours.
The problem is that the 2k clear is lifting off the TS-49 which has happened twice now when removing masking tape (Tamiya stuff), as I had fully stripped all paint off and started again. I've never had a problem with the 2k lifting off metallic colours from the TS range of Tamiya's. This is the first time I have clear coated over a solid TS colour so was wondering if the solid colours of the TS range aren't designed to take a clear coat ? In particular 2k clear ?
I am fully aware of the adverse effects of using isocyanate based paints and am equipped for it safety wise. I love the off the gun finish you can get with 2k clear, but i'm considering going back to using TS-13 clear. Anyone else had issues with using 2k over Tamiya's solid colour spray paints ?
Nosferatu wrote: Bugger! It sounds silly but have you tried "Detacking" the Tamiya tape first ie getting rid of some of its stickiness? I do it on a clean piece of glass or glossy tile.
Yeah will give that a try! Thanks for the tip.
Never had an issue with Tamiya tape before though lifting 2k off a Tamiya base coat.
The pic I attached was the first round, the second round (after a full strip down and re-paint) only a section of the bonnet clear lifted so luckily I can mask off that area and refinish.. but hopefully without lifting more clear off. If more clear lifts then i'll probably fully strip the body and switch to an all Tamiya paint system.. i.e Tamiya Surface primer, TS-49, and then TS-13 followed by hours of polishing.
Trying to work more on completion over perfection.
Thank you received: 239
Paint job was looking amazing. How annoying that this masking issue happened.
My thoughts would be around giving the different layers more time to cure.
I have been burned in the past when even when it looks and feels cured it can still be 'reactivated' by normally harmless products.
I have found the most reliable test is the smell test, once you cant smell the 2k then i leave it another 6-12 hours before I bother it but the times all depend on temperature, humidity etc etc
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TS-49 and 2k clear compatible ?
10 months 3 weeks ago #7
Using a base coat system and clearing to soon any solvent still evaporating from your base colour gets trapped and will cause the clear to delamante but leaving it too long the and it will as well, we have a 5-10min flash time before clearing and a max of an hour normally. I guess the paint you're using is an enamel or lacquer that is designed to be used without a clear coat? so once it's cured and you have given it a key you shouldn't have a problem. What are you cleaning it with after sanding it? this may be leaving a film on the surface causing the issue. Are you using the same brand clear, hardener and thinner?
I have had this happen as well, (got two body’s that I have to strip). I am wondering with my two that I sanded the paint too smooth, and as such the 2k didn’t have any tooth to grab, sounds silly, but maybe that’s the case, I am like you, love the 2k but man it is fussy.