I set about installing mirrors on the body ... not so easy!
I noted the dimensions depending pictures of the car and decorating instructions for positioning.
Drilled two holes to be able to insert copper wire in each mirror, and drilled the upper body including one hole slightly larger on the front for adjustment.
I let a bit length for inserting two bolts on the inside face of the bodywork part.
Few things were done on the engine and you can see the comparison with his little brother from 1969...
Wheels painted gold:
Onc again 67 & 69:
Time to test the "Surface Primer" from GRAVITY COLORS.
the good point is that it works upon resin, metal and plastic.
First of all some parts need to be prepared or finished before painting process.
... And holes need to be done once again!
But it seems I like rivets
GRAVITY paints are AWESOME!!
Easy to work with, extremly thin coats can already give a beautiful result and a strong deep satin finish.
They also dry very quickly: perfect!!
Next step is the finnish coat that will be given by the Clear.
So let's go for the Gravity Colors clear coat test!
New gloves, stirrer and cup for the mix.
3 components: clear, activator and thinner with a 3:1:1 mix ratio.
I always let the mix at rest for about 5 to 10 minutes in order to let allow to the chemical mix to degas.
You can add more thinner if necessary.
Then, one mist coat and, 5 to 10 mn later, a wet coat (or more): that's all!
Parts drying in the "magic box":
To sum up:
Great and pleasant product.
The gloss is... SHINNING!! Deep gloss even if thin.
Only 6ml of clear 2ml of activator and 2 of additive thinner were used...
The tub is drilled and equiped with 0.5 stainless steel rivets.
Then the tub parts are assembled (welded) with low temp solder (70°C).
Same thing for the front tub part with Calibre 35 0.7resin rivets this time.
The frontwhite metal bulkhead and his PE part are drilled, but I didn't used the PE part...
I just used it as a template for, I think, a more realistic result.
Once again, Calbre 35 0.7 resin rivets were used.
The steering column is cut and the external part of the steering rack is replaced by stainless steel 1.2mm syringe needle cut at the right size.
0.7 resin rivets once again.
Pedals won't be visible at the end...
Here the work of the day: brakes!
In order to properly clean, coloring and "scratch" the disks (White Metal), I quickly crafted small plates of turned aluminum.
They will allow me to hold them on a small tool holder to be fixed in the drill chuck.
Disk on the tooll:
Done but still dirty:
The rear discs are detailed with beautiful PE parts, but lack detail for my taste.
0.4 holes drilled in the part:
Allen head from Rob (RBMotion):
Brakes are also... Calipers
Drilled and equipped with copper pipes and brake bleeders from Rob once again
These pics of your build are absolutely fantastic mate...the detail is sublime...watching this build intently
Update In Stash:
Lots of 1/35 Armor mainly WWII German and a few Modern British/American pieces, 1/32 Aircraft and 1/48 Aircraft. Aircraft chosen to replicate RNZAF and RAAF types through the years. Some RAF & USAF types exist also.
The wire mesh which protects the velocity stacks against ingestion of (FOD) is shaped using the included tool.
The mesh is a bit too "flashy" for me.
I put the grid under the flame to give it a more suitable color.
The shaping is thereby slightly more facilitated.
A small test seems to validate this solution.
As mentioned above, the heat shield is made, its implementation validated.
it only remains some paint and weathering:
And exhaust clamps installed:
A new light coat of white is quickly sprayed, then a thin coat of Aqua Gloss in order to protect the paint.
Holy Crap and various other words to that effect pretty much covers it for me too!!!
This is TOP CLASS stuff Pascal .... absolutely loving it ...
My preference - WW2 RNZAF & Pacific Theatre, Allied & Axis, ETO, Mediterranean, AFV & figures
I enjoy doing research