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TOPIC: Revell 240Z

Revell 240Z 3 years 11 months ago #2

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The glass is also misformed in places.


Don't know what to think of these


The Decals look OK but we'll see when we use them. There are individual decals for the gauges.

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Revell 240Z 3 years 11 months ago #3

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The moulding is all done in white. Never worked with white plastic before so it's something new as well.


Laying out all the sprues, this kit has a ton of flash on it, and many ejector pin marks; a lot in very difficult places like on the suspension springs.


First things first, the chrome sprue goes into a bag

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Revell 240Z 3 years 11 months ago #4

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Then in goes the Mr Muscle.


Hopefully a bath in Klear will help the glass. The first dip didn't work out too well. I should have cleaned the glass so I wiped it off and then cleaned it up for another dip.


And I test fit the body and chassis pan. I also used some marker to highlight mould lines I need to remove.


I'm not after perfection here. Not after a showroom finish, just a decent model from an ordinary kit. It does have the full engine and parts though so I'm hoping to take some lessons picked up here and there to apply to this and maybe have a fairly quick build.

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Revell 240Z 3 years 11 months ago #5

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Watchin' in on this one Grover. I know what you are running into with the kit though - both the jobbies I'm into are also Revell, with many of the same issues. I've found makers marks dated 1978 on the Pickup truck and 1985 on the Chevelle coupe. It really shows how far some manufacturers have come and that some are still stuck in the "dark ages" of the hobby. This is especially evident when one finds that the instruction sheets are dated 2011 and 2012 yet the moulds are 30 to 40 years old and show it.

Good Luck with that Datsun Kane . . . :lol:

D1
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Revell 240Z 3 years 11 months ago #6

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Cheers Dave. I couldn't sleep last night so lay in bed watching youtube car building videos. Got a huge work day today and then it calms down a bit so am going to plow through with this. The details are pretty soft so I'm not expecting brilliant results, but I do love my Z cars.

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Revell 240Z 3 years 11 months ago #7

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I'd suggest investing in Micro-Mesh polishing cloths or pads to prep the plastic and the subsequent layers of primer, basecoat, top coats etc. I use them primarily for car building, but also my aircraft builds aswell. You certainly seem to be on-top of this build very quickly.

Wonder if this is the same mould from this mid 1970's release:





Could be, just with 'street 'options' :dry: . Not important just a thought.

Ian.;
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Revell 240Z 3 years 11 months ago #8

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Nice choice mate and looks to be leaps and bounds ahead in quality compared to that Hawk kit. Good luck! ;)
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Revell 240Z 3 years 11 months ago #9

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IAN wrote: I'd suggest investing in Micro-Mesh polishing cloths or pads to prep the plastic and the subsequent layers of primer, basecoat, top coats etc. I use them primarily for car building, but also my aircraft builds aswell. You certainly seem to be on-top of this build very quickly.

Wonder if this is the same mould from this mid 1970's release:

Ian.; [/color]


Would lint free cloths work Ian? I was searching for Flocking powder since Rick didn't have any black stuff, and nor did Might ape. I discovered it's used for nail art and found this site with these www.nailsupplies.co.nz/product-category/...art/flocking-powder/
And I see Trademe has heaps available, usually as a big pack of garish colours.

As for the kit, yes, it feels like an old mold. Should be a fun build.

VD, lol, not hard to be an improvement, but the hawk isn't that bad. Well maybe it is :unsure:

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Revell 240Z 3 years 11 months ago #10

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grover wrote: Would lint free cloths work Ian? :unsure:


For buffing, yes they would, but if you want to stretch y'self and go for that really deep 'showroom shine' for the paintwork, , then you need to do what they do in 'real' paint shops. Shoot your paint, rub & polish back with consecutively finer grades and then repeat the process. Micro-Mesh (cloths or pads) are just great for this. I know Rick has them, but you could try nail care outlets aswell.

It's up to you, matey, not compulsory, just a suggestion. ;)

Ian.
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Revell 240Z 3 years 11 months ago #11

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Will be interesting to see where you go with this one mate. Old kits can be good, and then really not as well... so good luck! Will be watching with interest
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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #12

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Cheers Ian and K2. Ian, could I use Tamia polishing compounds? I've even seen people use car wax on builds. Don't know if I will go down that route though.

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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #13

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Never used the Tamiya compounds, I use car polish from Resene - I'm a regular customer for masking and GP Thinners so 'my mate' behind the counter gave me a sample bottle which will probably last me five years !!

Ian.
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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #14

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You are a brave man tackling that old beast :lol: , (mod's - this man deserves a medal).
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"No, I didn't lose my mind. It got scared and ran away"

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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #15

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Cheers Ian and Turtle. Sub assemblies start this avo when I get home. I've already started prepping the body work. There's a mould line right between a 240z badge and a window that's going to be a bitch to get rid of nicely.

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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #16

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Good luck with the old beast :) , Have seen some flock on the Aussie site bnamodelworld.com

What are you intending to use for the chrome parts?
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Cheers Gavin

Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #17

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A great blast from the past Kane! It should look very nice in black as you mentioned.
Do you have any connection to the 240Z that inspired you to build this kit?
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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #18

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Those old Revell kits can be a real headache but the work is usually worth it as they end up looking pretty good.
I got my flocking from ebay, as mentioned have a look at other 'craft' sections like scrapbooking etc
For polishing I use the 3 part Novus set www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU
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Stand aside caffine, this is a job for alcohol.
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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #19

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kiwigav wrote: Good luck with the old beast :) , Have seen some flock on the Aussie site bnamodelworld.com
What are you intending to use for the chrome parts?

I'll be using Alclad or maye the AK Extreme Metals for the chrome.

PJ, no connection except always loving the Z cars. That classic sports car shape like the E-Type, 240Z, 260Z ive always found appealing and have wanted to own them all. And many more...

Cheers for the link Webby.

What do people usually use to lay down flocking powder?

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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #20

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grover wrote:
What do people usually use to lay down flocking powder?


Microsol - Kristal klear, Thinned PVA (thin with water)

David

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Tamiya 1/24 Alfa Romeo 155 V6 TI (1993 DTM) - "Built to Race" GB
Revell 1/24 '77 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 - getting the "Mad-Maxed" treatment - moving to the "Diorama" GB

Don't let someone dim your light simply because it's shinning in their eyes !
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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #21

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Hey K1 - What did those pieces look like after being "de-chromed"? Would you be able to post a pic? I may be doing this on my next quick project, and would like to know what it does.

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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #22

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Xtr3meNZer wrote: Hey K1 - What did those pieces look like after being "de-chromed"? Would you be able to post a pic? I may be doing this on my next quick project, and would like to know what it does.


Typical chromed part of 1980's era kit:


De-chromed part of 1980's era kit:


There was a very small amount of the "chrome" left on after 6 hours in the Mr Muscle. This came off very easily with a scalpel/craft knife . .
Hope that helps . . . :)

David
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Don't let someone dim your light simply because it's shinning in their eyes !

Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #23

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So most of it dissolves away, and you only scrape off the klingons?
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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #24

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Correct. usually the longer you leave it the more that comes off . . . Don't go more than 12 hours though!
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Tamiya 1/24 Alfa Romeo 155 V6 TI (1993 DTM) - "Built to Race" GB
Revell 1/24 '77 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 - getting the "Mad-Maxed" treatment - moving to the "Diorama" GB

Don't let someone dim your light simply because it's shinning in their eyes !

Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #25

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I left mine for 3 days and it's ok. A clean underwater with a toothbrush and some detergent had it come up nice. I'll try and do an update tomorrow. I have Thursday and Friday off work so I hope I can get some stuff done on this. Had been too much life stuff going on, I haven't had much time or head space for doing anything

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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #26

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All good man, look forward to seeing an update. Hope all is well in the Milne household
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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #27

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Pre Mr Muscle


Post Mr Muscle


The chrome killed a lot of detail it was so thick, but there's a lot of clean up still needed though

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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #28

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Sweet thanks :) The Mrs wants me to build the combi van next, and it has chrome parts on it... was thinking about stripping them back and doing it myself. Hopefully the AK Chrome metal paint does the job well...
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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #29

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Started putting the engine together. Funny that there's some nice detail but a horrible fit.


And I think that's probably going to be the story of this kit. Nice Detail, Horrible fit


But it's a good challenge for me, and it's not all terrible. The seats are great

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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #30

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Ouch about the fit... good luck with the construction!
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Revell 240Z 3 years 10 months ago #31

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Xtr3meNZer wrote: Sweet thanks :) The Mrs wants me to build the combi van next, and it has chrome parts on it... was thinking about stripping them back and doing it myself. Hopefully the AK Chrome metal paint does the job well...

I'm following a lot of the lessons from this channel, even though the presenter is a bit drone and I dont follow everything he does, it's still good learning. His is his combi van playlist he's currently building
www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLml5qXMU9...GhsBEeu8SJ04BZkmm0V4
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