Yep i was very much joking about the panel lines! i mean its a fictional jet how could they be wrong!!! ... plus they are pretty deep!
It was a gentle gibe to the rescribers out there, i really only re-scribe if A: i destroyed panel lines with putty/sanding or B: there are none. I really don't bother rescribing for accuracy. I am impressed with those who take the time to do it tho... plus i'm truly crap at it.
and I've just had a look and that seam..... yeah...ehh bugger... thats tight.
its 40cm's long and about 30ish cms wingspan and heavy ! lucky the gear is done in hard plastic.
Cheers for the tip mate! you sprinkle the baking soda on just after setting the part? what about slow dry CA scared stiff i will set something too early, i like to get the seams aligned which is why i like the plastic glue, gives you time.
The kit is just fantastic, even the way the parts feel in you hand is amazing,.. but the price... bloody eye watering
however saw this today, its either a 1:48 FireFox or a 1:24th mossie.
i know what your thinking.... why choose get em both....
thinking in Russian!!!! i actually work with a Russian lady she has never heard of firefox!!
so started cleaning up the parts , getting the flash off,... working what to cut (and not to cut). I've thrown my back out so its only standing work at the mo.
Anyhoo i noticed the parts still felt a bit slick like i'd not got all the mold lube off in the first bath sooo without further ado... a bit of model porn for you.... fire fox getting warm and soapy...again...
As for glue, go for two part epoxy, but get your mixtures right or it Will set on you straight away. I use the Araldite Two part tubes from any good hardware store.
CA's tend, over time, to dry out and become brittle or loose their adhesion and some types of plastics and resins don't like them at all.
I'd experiment some before starting on this bird though. Oh yes, some of the more common putties we use may not adhere to resin either. Be sure to create roughened surfaces for joins and areas that you intend to use filler. ZAP Slo Zap Thick CA is an effective filler by the way but as you have found, the particular Resin of the kit may be one of those that will not bond using CA's.
Good luck . . .
Now that is weird - an edit became a quote. Clicked the wrong icon I guess. Anyone working with larger amounts of resin should read this though . . .
1/35th Battalion wrote: A brave lad here . . . Am watching.
As for glue, go for two part epoxy, but get your mixtures right or it Will set on you straight away. I use the Araldite Two part tubes from any good hardware store. One downside of epoxies is the smell; I tend to use a P2V Carbon filter mask which meets AS/NZS 1716 Dust/Mist/Fumes standards. You should be wearing something of this ilk even when sanding resins and cleaning up the dust too.
Good luck . . .
Mr Battalion you 100% right and i will be going to the hardware store before i continue, having used nearly 1/2 a tube of CA glue last night i can attest to its uselessness, there needs to be some bonding rather than sticking The resin is heavy and will not survive much handling if glued with CA.
The resin is also brittle Adding weight to the nose last night broke the nose piece at the nose gear bay (its thinnest point) you can see below i have added a brass rod to reinforce this as the nose fuse is long and acts as a fulcrum, i had to add quite a lot of weight to the nose as the rear of the plane is nearly solid resin and is very heavy.
So pit done to as far as i can see in the movie... as accurate as i can be,... there are very few stills The seat they use in the film looks very much like a martin baker seat rather than a K36 but hey! its Russian so it should be a Russian seat!
Had to shave about 2 mil on either side of the bottom half of the nose so it aligns with the top without a massive lip! No#1 thing i like about resin is its really easy to carve panel lines!
Anyway progress so far, will be using the araldite/epoxy stuff to glue the main fuse as this requires significant bonding.