A bit more done tonight. Finishing off the engine and main landing gear nacelles but the join isn't the best in the world, and considering this is a futuristic fighter, I want a nice finish on everything, so this needs to be bought up to par.
I had to fill in the gear bays so got the doors prepared
And these doors worked pretty well, although on this nacelle there were still decent gaps to fill.
Finally, I put on the cockpit decals which means I can close up the nose section tomorrow and if I can, I'll mask the canopy and then it's just finishing off the bodywork for paint. That means sanding, filling and rescribing though. Not my favorite things
My Current Macross Timeline build of every Macross Varitech Fighter from the VF-0 prototype to the VF-25 so far and the Russian/Isreali SV-51
All these are getting made up on a carrier deck Cat launcher with Adruino controlled Lighting, Engine effects and Jet Blast Deflector raising and lowering.
In there somewhere is your VF-11 Thunderbolt "Nothung II"
Just so you are aware, the Nothung II is a civilian Reno Racer style Pylon race plane not a combat model. Hence the not so nice graphics.
And example of what can be done with these kits is below.
The first image is the "ESPN" Camera Chase Plane from the Race Series and looks nasty with those graphics and its giant camera pod here the cannon should be.
The second is the same kit reimagined as a two seater (The Thunderbolt was only available as a single seater apart from the Civi Camera version) into an ECM And Ground Attack Fighter Bomber. Looks pretty convincing in the Lo-Viz paint too.
If you have any questions on it drop a line and I can help out.
Once you finish it, if you want to sell your left over parts, especially the spare pilot (These kits come with 2 pilots even though they only use one) as some of the earlier VF-1 Valkyries have no pilots and I have a couple of 2 seater versions. I also need to modify them all so they have their arms positioned to be holding the braces for a Catapult launch instead of the controls and also saluting the Shooter.
Now thinking about how I will mount this, I decided to use the nice thick part of the clear sprue on the right, and with my knife carefully scribed and cut out a small rectangle area that was already recessed in the mould
Then just using a file I guesstimated the amount I would need to shave off the end of the clear, and buffed the area back up
and now I have a stand. Tomorrow I'll shoot out and get a picture frame for a base
A bit of work this morning on bits and pieces. More sanding and preparing the fuselage for paining. I gave the parts I metaliser on a buff, and the sections at the leading edge of the wing roots I added some clear blue and white for lights, then put the clear covers on.
I masked up the intakes now the white was all dry (I hope)
And masked the tops of these parts, whatever they are, ready for the next bit of primer.
After laying down the primer I shot out to the shops to pick up a picture frame for the base, with and idea I saw someone at florys do. It came with a thick core so I was able to cut out the centre of the cardboard and put in a piece of MDF I had lying around.
Given this is an RAF build, I found some creative commons aerial shots of London, and printed one to size. I did this just on thick paper, but might pick up some glossy paper to reprint it depending on how it looks when I actually put the finished model on.
Cheers guys. Tonight I will start preshading. Given this is my first 1:72 build, I don't want thick lines with the preshading. I was thinking lower air pressure and spraying closer to the surface. Does this sound right?
Thanks Jackie, and thanks Flying Kiwi who sent me the decals which turned up today. I'm trying out the Mig Ammo paints I got with the RAF Fighters pack.
I coated the exhausts and a couple of other parts in Mr Metals Aluminium, but it may be a bit too bright. If it is I'll do a coat of Stainless Steel instead.
And I'm really ashamed of my preshading work. I just couldn't get the airbrush to do what I wanted. It was spitting and throwing stuff everywhere, and the lines wouldnt go down nice and thin. By the stage you see here I had given up and just started doing what i could. I don't know if the paint was too thin, or what. I was using a Harder & Steinbeck Infinity with a .2 needle. I tried at low PSI (10) and it was spiderwebbing the paint when I got too close, or spitting like mad when I moved away. I do have a tiny bend in the tip of the needle as it catches on cotton swabs when I clean it. I don't know if that's a problem?
Anyway, the preshading is down and I masked a recessed area to stay black when I lay the grey over it tomorrow. Got to use the glass from the photo frame I purchased for the base as a cutting mat for the tape. I also am going to mask the nose cone to give it a slightly different shade than the rest of the body.
Apart from the pre-shading this is looking awesome. I would think that the low pressure wouldn't "push" the paint out as much, so that might be why it's webbing and spitting. Have a tester on a piece of paper first before putting it to the kit. This way you can have a bit of a practice, and get the lines you want. I wouldn't know the pressure to use, but try a bit higher, and practice on a piece of paper.
Xtr3meNZer wrote: Apart from the pre-shading this is looking awesome. I would think that the low pressure wouldn't "push" the paint out as much, so that might be why it's webbing and spitting. Have a tester on a piece of paper first before putting it to the kit. This way you can have a bit of a practice, and get the lines you want. I wouldn't know the pressure to use, but try a bit higher, and practice on a piece of paper.
Otherwise, looking great
Agree with K2 about the practice...but use a piece of styrene sheet that has been primed as the paint will be absorbed in paper and may give you a false indication of what its doing...
"Of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most"