Well, it looks like I have finally succumbed to building a plastic kit.
Came across this model in a secondhand shop. Couldn't believe my luck.
One small minor part is missing. 95% of the kit is still in its template frames.
Sorted out what paints I will be needing. Some colours had to be mixed to suit.
Started researching for XXI images for both external and internal views. The more I see the more I realize how the XXI has had many versions. It is as if each boat was different internally.
Got stuck into building the conning tower. Perhaps I have rushed it. I am getting second thoughts on how to add more impression to it.
Anyway, this is how it looks today.
Still have some touching-up to do.
Currently waiting for ordered items to help me build in plastic.
Will return to this model now and again as I am still busy building the bridge diorama. This model will be a sort of diversion therapy. It's nice to pay attention to something different.
Had a lot of trouble finding anything on the flak guns. From what I can gather is shown below.
The gunner is enclosed in a column or pillar. There is no window or slot in the turret for sighting the target, so the turret hatch has to be opened to sight the target. This model of the turret does not lend itself to making an open hatch without botching-up the turret. So I have decided to leave the hatch alone, However, there are gaps around the guns which would allow any light within the pillars to shime out. Most probably there is no light within the pillar, but to add a bit of drama I decided to add one.
I read somewhere that earlier night vision lights used a blue-green light (before the red light was introduced). So I opted to use a blue for something different. There is a problem with introducing a LED within the sail. It lights up everything, and light escapes through all cracks etc. Decided to eliminate this diffusion by directly attaching the LED to the plastic, and painting the glued LED black. This helped my to isolate where I wanted the light to shine. The below photos shows the light quite brightly. I will dim this down by introducing a resistor for each LED at the power source.
When are you starting your new build log?
Still waiting on 2 books .........when i build something i want as much books on the subject as i can ,
Already have 4 so 6 should be allright.
i know most of it can be found on the WWW but i like books ,I think il start at the end of the month .
Last night, and today, I spent time painting torpedoes. I noticed that some colours did not like the smooth plastic, for the paint spread out ultra-thin. Several coats needed to be applied. Next time I will lightly sand the plastic so more pigment gets trapped and held to the surface.
The torpedoes come in four sets of three (fused together). Nearly every modeller of this kit elected to follow the instructions to the letter. I noticed by doing so, the rear starboard wall and its instrumentation gets blocked by the upper rack of torpedoes (the bottom rack, of three, is not used). The racks can handle 16 torpedoes, the kit has 12. Decided to cut one torpedo from the set of three, which leaves two torpedoes for the bottom rack. As a result, I am using the bottom and centre racks, leaving the top one free. This empty space now provides a clearer view of the starboard wall. The two spare torpedoes will be used in a simulation of being fired and just leaving the torpedo tubes.
Used a single insulated wire to imitate a shaft and lever for each torpedo tube. This will indicate the mechanical firing lever. Actually, the wire can be turned by the lever. This could actually be used as a contact switch for triggering sound effects of a torpedo being fired . I won't be using that idea on this model, for it will be sealed in a display box.
Decided to give the torpedoes a coat of gloss. I think they look a lot better.
Besides, I am sure they used to give the torpedoes a coat of oil/grease for easier release from the torpedo tubes.
Worked on painting the torpedo compartment wall. Surprisingly the kit instructions show not decals for this wall. Perhaps they realized that the torpedoes would obscure the wall. But this model has the wall showing. So now I have to paint what I can, and made a rough plan of colours to use on the plastic protrusions.
Thought of a way to make the larger dials more realistic. The idea is to paint the dial surface a matt white so pencil marks would be easier to apply. Then paint the white dial with a few coats of clear gloss to imitate glass. I think it worked out well.
Really enjoyed painting these small bits. My confidence in doing so increased as I progressed. My hand stayed more relaxed and steadier. In that relaxed state I became more aware of what was needed to be done. I feel that my skills will improve as I proceed along on this build.
As I was painting the bulkhead, I decided to forego the decals. What the kit shows (embossed areas) is not what the U 2540 has. I am sure the kit designers just used the actual as a guide only. Anyway, I decided to paint my own version, on their embossed version, using the actual as a guide (if that make sense).
Made a polystyrene shelf (first plastic scratch build) for the spare warheads, and refined the spare torpedo racks.
So now I am finished with the torpedo room. Next compartment is the wardroom.
Thank you Bishop.
There are two wardrooms shown in this model (aft and fore). Building both at same time since they basically contain the same kit bits and paint colours.
Decided to make some changes, by adding different aspects. First thing is to add railings to each bed (thirty of them). Used single strand, tinned copper, wire for the railings. Cut notches into bed frame and super glued the railings in place.
Painted the floor to look as if it was carpet. The model only shows the port side wardrooms. The door opening invites curiosity ('what's behind the door'). Decided to exploit that possibility. That is why I have painted a portion of the carpet beyond the door opening.
There will be bunkers in the foreground which will partly obscure the doorway. I believe it is worth creating a sort of 'peepshow'. If one finds a good line of sight they will get a slight peek into the hallway and starboard wardroom (officers rooms).
Created an artificial hallway from polystyrene. The two holes are for LEDs.
The forward wardroom carpet still needs to be refined. I made the dots too big.
Revell has done it again, they have made details which get hidden if one only follows the instructions. This model, so far has many options, especially when details are hidden, for they invite the modeller to reveal them.
So, what to do? One can cut away the wardroom floor. Which won't reveal much even if I took out the port-side bunkers. Another way, though somewhat audacious, is to create a cross-sectional display of the batteries. Drew a sketch to see how it may look, and if it was feasible.