While the instructions show the positioning of where rigging is to be attached, there are infact no attachment points on the kit. I looked online at how a Tiger Moth is rigged from actual photographs and figured how I will attach the rigging on this kit. You'll see this as I progress the build and I'll post images of actual rigging points for reference. I made sure that I was forearmed with this info before deciding I would build this kit now.
Before you start this kit you will need to consider (if rigging the kit) what type a rigging material you will be using, eg wire, flexible thread etc. The Tiger Moth has control wires (or cables) that run externally along the fuselage side from the rudder to the front cockpit and wires that run from the top and bottom of the elevators into the rear of the fuselage, ahead of the horizontal tailplane. In addition, there is all the wiring in-between the the top and bottom wings to consider as well. However, It is the elevator wires and how you will position them on the model that you need to consider first as these run from outside to inside of the fuselage.
I have seen Tiger Moth models in the past where modellers have either; glued the elevator wire to the side of the fuselage with a drop of superglue or drilled holes in the side of the fuselage and threaded through the wires. Some example of this I’ve seen go in at 90 degrees because of the thick plastic fuselage sides, which doesn’t look so good. I’ve opted to use thin gauge (5 amp) wire for the fuselage wires and I’ve thinned the plastic around the interior entry points, where the wire goes into the fuselage, as thin as possible. A test fit of how this would look appeared OK so the elevator wiring will go on after the kit is painted. Images tell the story.
A test fit of the two fuselage halves showed that they fitted quite well, but for the two lugs inside the top of the fuselage, which needed the tops of the lugs thinned a little so the fuselage top joining surfaces aligned flush. There was a sliver of extra plastic moulded into bottom of the fuselage joining surfaces, directly behind where the wing fits, which also required a little trimming so the bottom of the fuselage mated flush. A test fit of the fuselage floor with fuselage closed also fitted well at this point.
The cockpit interior can be painted and assembled reasonably quickly. RAF grey-green for the interior colour, black instrument panels and silver levers attached to the side of the fuselage. I’ve used Eduard’s early RAF etch seatbelts in this instance. The engine also needs to be painted at this stage because it is moulded as two pieces on each fuselage side. The decals for the instruments are well printed and sit on raised bezels. Eduard make an instrument panel for this kit but I think the kit part and decals are fine and look quite convincing.
I painted the fuselage interior, fitted the etch seatbelts and glued the seats and bulkheads together. When I test-fitted this assembly inside the fuselage halves the fuselage halves would not go together without a gap at the top or bottom of the mating surfaces. I sanded around 0.5mm from the floor sides and the front seat bulkhead sides and this did the trick; the fuselage closed flush now and no filler required. Once the fuselage is together the balance of painting and highlighting can be done on the engine. A few different shades black and some grey and silver dry-brushing does the trick. The kit has provision to display one side of the cowl open to show the engine, but my build will have the cowl sides closed. Nevertheless, I painted the engine on my model just in case I change my mind later.