Nup. Funnily enough I’ve not picked any thing up in the feet as it’s just plastic and I pretty much never wear bare feet in the room. Our aircon has broken down so we are taking measures to cool down a little. No, the problem is always the knife or stray saw blade. I have very few disasters as I’m so aware of it, but the plastic gave way so the blade went through the tube wall and into my tumb. Poopies happen. Thankfully not normally though.
The transmissions are finally finished and are drying awaiting final detail painting, gear nobs bolt heads instruction plaques and so forth. This means that the basic drive train is completed up to the engine for each Tiger. Next up the seats. The framework for the HL has been done, as we know, so I’ll now construct the three seats to “kit” standard and then do the upgrades to make them all to spec.
Many thanks. Nice to finally making some progress or at least to see some.
The frames for the seats are now up to kit spec withe first of the add ons underway. The support posts will be cut back to the correct height next. Then I’ll add the extra rods and lever to raise and lower the seat. This acted exactly as the lever on a Jason recliner does. The look like basketball hoop supports in some shots.
Chair backs and seats under construction. The springs will be the worst thing. I’ll do those then I need some P38 to make the cushions. I also need to create three cushions for the radio operator’s side.
Seats almost done. I just need to add two levers to each seat and extra thingie joining the extra rods that have been added and make lots of cushions. 9 in total.
I made 12 sets of springs, 4 for each seat back, and finally got the right size and shape using one of those 3D pin shape maker doovies. Hmmm.
One of the seats sitting on its framework
The others. The extended rods will be cut to length and have one of the levers attached as per the Jason recliner.
So once the seats are dry I’ll paint the cushions and attach them to the frames. Then with this yucky bit done it’s time to go back and do the hull detailing I need to do.
This will involve the preparation of the hulls themselves with armour notching and welds and creating or upgrading steering, braking and other equipment. Lots to do, but then the interiors can begin to come together.
So crew equipment which basically means driver’s stuff. Some things need to be replaced like the right hand steering brake lever and some things need duplication. Also, I am finally tackling the lubrication tubes. I’m replacing the molded ones and duplicating the third set. Half way there.
A quick update. Things just inching along as per the imperial old days at present, but we’re getting there. Many details to add, but the levers are appearing. Ironically these will need lots of extra details beyond kit standard so lots to do.
Breathing large sighs of relief tonight. The final drive lubrication tubes are done. The HL Tiger has some details to add to each tube, but done. I can’t believe I stressed so much about these jolly tubes. The enormously complex radios will be nothing compared to these. Totally changes the look of things too. Next up I’ll make up the spring adjustment rods for the left hand steering brake. The right hand brake has the spring attached directly to the hull wall, not so the left side. Then the last things to detail are the pedals which need all the missing linkage mounting points added. There’s a lot missing. I also need to make three accelerator pedals as the kit ones are 1:35. Hmmmm.
Hand brake complete apart from final sanding of the grip area
The adjusters looking very unadjuster like. The rod attaches to the floor when cut to the correct length and the arms attach either side of the brake counter spring arm that sits out the back of the drums. It will make sense when all together
Pushing on with the pedals now. The attachment points for the springs for the pedals are partly completed. The front ends need to be shortened and the attachment points added. This will become clearer when completed. There are linkages that sit at the back of the pedal arm mount that also need to be added. The metal attachment point arms are made from solder gently squeezed between pliers after getting the desired shape. Once squashed they are quite solid, but still easy to trim. David Parker has used this method quite a bit and I found it easy to use too.
I can’t think what the colour looks like. Is it buff or deck tan? What do you want to use it for? If it is for ivory buff is too “white” and deck tan to brown. Buff would be better as you add a brown wash that mostly vanishes. You need a colour that looks like dirty teeth.
That will be okay for the engine and the brake drums behind their coverings, but the hull interior is red oxide and ivory. Generally anything that moves like the handles and levers are black rather than grey.