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TOPIC: Auto Modelling

Auto Modelling 7 months 1 week ago #1

  • Hadley
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Hey everyone
Been thinking about a little project that would involve 3x car kits (plus for when I build my other cars too)
I know alot of car modellers use spray cans for their paint and get some impressive results, like the guy at Armistice who had all the cars downstairs, forgot the name

So I was wondering what everyones thoughts and pros/cons for spray cans vs airbrushing
At this stage, most if not all the colours I'll need I can get from the tamiya spray can range (there's one colour I haven't seen in the normal paint pots)

Secondly, those who get the awesome finish to their cars, whats your process to get them so nice?
Thanks in advice

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In the build:
2x Possum Bourne Subaru rally cars
On hold:
1/48 KA50 Hokum
1/72 Bell 412

Auto Modelling 7 months 1 week ago #2

  • Brian F
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I prefer using an airbrush as you have so much more control over paint spray pattern,flow, pressures etc. Using spray cans is costly (so much is wasted) and there is a limited range of colours. I always use PPG Auto lacquer for my bodies and have never had a problem if it is used correctly. Such a huge range of colours and you can custom mix what you like. Just practice on an old body first when you start using this type of paint or you can "fry" the plastic as the solvents are harsh.. Using rattle cans is like installing a Rolex watch spring with a sledge hammer.

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Auto Modelling 7 months 1 week ago #3

  • maltsr
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Hi Hadley
Thanks for your comments, I'm the guy downstairs and my name is Paul. I've never used an airbrush so usually rely on Tamiya spraycans for my paintwork.
The key to a smooth glossy finish is preparation. My procedure is as follows:
Wash and prime the bodies.
Wetsand with fine sandpaper (at least 600 grit).
Spray light mist coats, about 10 minutes apart. It should take about 3 coats to provide an even finish.
Wetsand again with fine sandpaper.
Apply a thicker wetcoat to produce a glossy finish, but not enough to cause runs in the paint !
I sometimes apply further paint in short, sharp bursts where necessary, but use extreme caution. Move the can rapidly across the body to minimise runs.
Allow to dry thoroughly before wetsanding again with fine sandpaper (up to 2000 grit) to remove any 'orange peel' effect.
Apply a light coat of clear followed by a heavier wetcoat, then allow to dry and lightly wetsand again with very fine sandpaper.
Finish off either by using polishing cloths (up to 12,000 grit) or use the Tamiya rubbing compounds.

If using metallic colours, these should be clearcoated before any sanding takes place, which can harm the metallic effect.

If I'm lucky, colours such as red and black turn out so well that there is no need to clearcoat. Number of fingers on one hand springs to mind here....

I hope this helps Hadley, this is my basic system. I sometimes take shortcuts having developed my techniques over the last 15 years or so.

Good luck with your project and let me know if you have any questions.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Webby_NZ, Hadley

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Auto Modelling 7 months 1 week ago #4

  • yak
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For me it depends on the finish i want to get. I base mine up with a small gravity feed spray gun if i want a new/shiny look i clear it with 2 pak clear with the same gun. if i want an older/used look i use tamiya spray can clear without polishing it. I used an airbrush on the roof of my surf and on the panels of the 300 where i added the faded look

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Rob

Currently hacking away at:
1/48 Hobby World TA-4
1/48 Tamiya Mosquito
1/35 Asuka Firefly VC "on hold"

Auto Modelling 7 months 6 days ago #5

  • Hadley
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Thanks for the comments guys
Will take them on board when I start the projects

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In the build:
2x Possum Bourne Subaru rally cars
On hold:
1/48 KA50 Hokum
1/72 Bell 412

Auto Modelling 5 months 3 weeks ago #6

  • Hadley
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maltsr wrote: Wash and prime the bodies.
Wetsand with fine sandpaper (at least 600 grit).
Spray light mist coats, about 10 minutes apart. It should take about 3 coats to provide an even finish.

Getting started with these, what do you wash the bodies with? Just water?
Do you fill up a bucket and sand under water? Or hold it under a tap?

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In the build:
2x Possum Bourne Subaru rally cars
On hold:
1/48 KA50 Hokum
1/72 Bell 412

Auto Modelling 5 months 2 weeks ago #7

  • maltsr
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Hi Hadley
I always wash my kits in the sink with a little dishwash detergent in warm water.
When wetsanding, I regularly dip the sandpaper in water and rinse the body under a tap.
Hope this helps.

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Auto Modelling 1 month 1 week ago #8

  • Hadley
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Hey Paul
I have a blue shell and a red shell
The blue will need clear then decals then clear again
The red has other colours required. Do I clear, mask, then spray next colour, or is it best not to do the colour over the clear? Make sense?
Then the red car would have the decals applied then a final clear...?

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In the build:
2x Possum Bourne Subaru rally cars
On hold:
1/48 KA50 Hokum
1/72 Bell 412

Auto Modelling 1 month 1 week ago #9

  • maltsr
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Hi Hadley
If you are using gloss paint and have a smooth surface, it isn't necessary to clear before decals, but usual caveats about silvering apply.
This applies to multi-colour paint schemes too, but a layer of clear will provide some protection when the time comes to smooth out any ridge where the colours meet.
I'm coming up to the show this weekend, will be glad to discuss further with you.

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Auto Modelling 1 month 1 week ago #10

  • Hadley
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Which clear do you use?
And yes I'll chat to you on Saturday about it :-)

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In the build:
2x Possum Bourne Subaru rally cars
On hold:
1/48 KA50 Hokum
1/72 Bell 412

Auto Modelling 1 month 1 week ago #11

  • maltsr
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Nearly all of my paint jobs are from Tamiya spraycans. See you at the weekend.

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